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Tampa is nice...I enjoyed it when I was based at MacDill.

I know Ian doesn't care, but will there be beer?

Make your life easy and stick with a '87-'88 harness.

Dan - As you surmised, an AFPR allows for a "global setting" to adjust AFR. It's not required, but if you have an over rich condition at boost, it will be the only way to help solve it. I had this exact thing happen to me with a Lex/550/Walbro set-up with a SP-61 turbo at 18 psi... had to drop...

Have you dropped your fuel pressure like I suggested above? 40 psi is way too high.

^^^ For the 3rd or 4th time! He also made sure the block deck was very smooth...with a rotory abrasive :3d_frown: Look man, if you're not going to listen there's no point in keeping on posting this kind of thread. You're going to get the same answers...when a BHG occurs, the failure...

Lube is good! :biglaugh:

Something else to keep in mind...the line from the rail to the AFPR to the tank is the return ;) AN-6 is plenty big enough for this task without causing a restriction...the AFPR is the restriction (that's where you get the desired pressure). If you want additional volume to the rail from...

7M Vacuum Readings

Blue Magic metal polish is good too. You will not get the gold color out; that's what stainless does when it gets hot. But you should be able to get the spots off.

You'll be lucky if your turbo ever comes back...at least in one piece. And, if it does, the wheels will shoot out both sides as soon as you hit boost. j/k ;) (Shouldn't you have asked before you sent the turbo out?)

Dude...that is not good. It may look smooth, but you induced "waves" in the block deck. It only takes 1 or 2 thou of material removal in any one area to cause the HG (especially a MHG) not to seal. There is no way that block deck is flat. Like I said before, flatness is just as or more...

Yes, if the EGR valve is stuck open or the modulator line from the EGR valve is clogged you can get get excessive exhaust gas dilution at idle. The motor will idle pretty rough though.

Here's a couple good threads: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61449&highlight=runners http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63825&highlight=runners&page=2

The biggest effect is plenum volume and runner length. Short runners are not as good for low end...long runners are. Smaller plenum volume makes a high output turbo hit hard, larger volume will soften it up. This FFIM has good volume to soften up the initial "hit" from the turbo to help...

LOL...you bet I am ;) I would be a real pisser to have to remove the FFIM in the car with studs...you'd have to pull the motor. Bolts will solve that easy.

LOL...beat me to it ;) I haven't dropped the motor in the car yet ;) Seth has one just like it dimension wise in his car and it does clear the brake booster. The biggest problem is I can't use the studs on the head that help align the manifold during install. The length does not allow...

That's actually "plan B" if I can't get the AEM to cooperate. Take a look at the TSRM EGR diagram...the port is just forward of the plate. If I can't control electronically, that's what I'll do. Exhaust gas in the intake charge makes for a very rough idle...cuts the amount of air too much

Thanks! A lot of thought went into this...now i need to finish this motor to see if it works as designed ;) There is one thing about the EGR that deviates from stock...I had to place the vac source behind (manifold side) of the TB plate. On the stock system it's just forward of the plate...