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Jay - I like CP pistons...got a coated set coming for the 7M. Not a light as the JE's, but the workmanship is superb. If you are going to go that route, I would still measure the cc chambers on the 1J vs the 2J head. That way, you can adjust the CR with the pistons...just order a set to...

Question - What makes you think it's the HG?

That's a new one...where do you guys come up with this stuff? Sounds like a boost leak in your IC piping.

Don't get caught up in names too much...any lithium grease will work fine. Silicone grease will too...you might find it in the plumbing section at the hardware store ;)

Petro grease can react with polyurethane causing hardening over time...but, folks use it with no problems too. The greases I listed are not petro greases.

Lithium or Teflon grease should work. Or, a PTFE based grease like Loctite Superlube.

ABQ - No I do not get a CEL (why would you?). Base pressure is a "global" setting...using a Lex AFM, it is really the only way to get your AFRs close without an SAFC or other electonic piggyback. Typically guys run way too much pressure with the 550 injectors...it causes you to run very rich...

Really? ;) Just scanning the above list yields two...AFM and O2 sensor...neither of which you mentioned. Suggest you read the last paragraph on the list (#5)...that is what I'm getting at. That FAQ is about as complete as you're going to find.

We don't need another thread on this...closed.

If the FAQ in the NA section (and posted above) is "not telling you a whole lot" you might want to rethink doing it on your own ;) This is a pretty extensive conversion...spoon feeding to you is not going to happen. You need to gather as much info as possible and ask specific questions. If...

If your shroud is in poor shape or you're missing the undertray, it can push the coolant temps to the upper part of the range. Fan clutch condition has an impact as well. You want your coolant at 190-200 degs.

Actually the temp range the ECU looks for is 176-210 deg F. Below that, the motor is in warm-up enrichment...above, the ECU retards timing. 190 is the temp the stock thermostat opens to allow coolant to the radiator.

It almost sounds like timing is retarded...like what you see with the CPS off a tooth. The motor would run like crap though.

Damn! And I thought it was .0055 houses ;)

I too "think" the cam gear settings was the cause, for the same reason. I'm not saying don't use a thicker MHG...I'm saying if you go over 2mm thick, you are having a significant effect on quench/squish. About 40 thou is about optium iirc. If the CC chamber on the 1J head is smaller than...

If you do that on the feed line from the head, you will lose all of your coolant in short order if it pops loose ;)

Why do you want to raise CR by using GE pistons? With the boost you're running, do you really want to do that?

Since you removed the EGR, either reinstall it or find a JDM ECU for your year car (JDM 7M motors did not have an EGR). An SAFC will help with fuel, but not the timing maps.

The recessed band (I assume along the edge of the cumbustion chamber) is there to more closely match the outside edge of the piston. Increase the distance between the piston edge and the recessed edge on the head, and you reduce quench. That is exactly what a thicker MHG will do...all the...

Like I said, the quench area on these motors is not that good to begin with due to the head chamber design combined with dish pistons. And I know for a fact increasing MHG thickness is going to reduce quench. Personally, I would want to minimize the effect to the max possible.