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Well...you really didn't tell me why, other than you "figured". I don't mean to jump on you man, but this is the reason guys do the things they do concerning oil. It's not based on anything but a "gut feeling". You do have the right idea for choosing an oil for cold start...a few specifics...

Pretty sure you got air coming in from some where...you need to track it down.

Dude - this is a vector off on an obscure tangent. The oil pressure gauge? Pressure bleed on on the air intake? (WTF...over) And, if someone EVER hooked up a coolant line where a fuel line attaches on a supra, it would require a lot of effort to do so...i.e. install banjo fittings to the...

M12x1.25

Thread closed...you got your answer. I'm going to point out (one more time), what you are trying to do is going to be very difficult. That was pointed out to you and that was all...I did not read a single post where someone acted like an ass or was a prick toward you. Looks like to me you...

Tell me why the 5W-40 is more suitable?

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62838

That I don't know...I sized one for my turbo myself. http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryID=32

Yes, an air leak from the brake booster or the line. Might want to take a look at the check valve on the line from the manifold to the booster.

It is your motor. I just don't want the guys that want their engine to last to get the idea a K&N air filter is the way to go...it's not.

A bit high at idle is no big deal...you're starting to push it at WOT IMO. Not much, but I would want to be at 11.5. I tend to go to slightly rich of an optimum 12.0 target at WOT...just in case. Detonation at WOT will ruin your whole day.

Good for you man...I'm sure a NA motor needs all the additional flow you can get. Might want to read the link Nick posted (#14) about drawing conclusions...it's dead on. Regardless of what you "think", fine dust entering your motor is not good...no matter how you rationalize it. At least...

That's a thought...the brake booster is vac driven. Might be pirate air. That AFR range at idle is pretty normal otherwise.

Is it oil?

Like I said George, you're not going to beat an AC Delco for filtering ability. And, it is going to flow plenty well enough for a NA motor.

Does it do it when you turn the head lights on? And how lean does it go...is 16 about max? What are your AFRs at cruise (2500-300 rpm)? After a bit of digging in the TCCS manual, I found that learned value is active at idle....give it a few days.

You don't have to jumper the fuel pump resistor...just the 2 terminals on the harness side for the stock FP relay like I said. Make sure you jumper the harness side of the FP relay. All you are doing is connecting the ECU FP terminal to the wire that leads to the back of the car. Disconnect...

That depends on how deep the cylinder wall scarring is and the oversize of the pistons.

Why doesn't this surprise me....

Give up John...Boyle's Law, Bernoulli's Principle and Fluid Dynamics in general don't apply in this thread. That would be way too technical. Pressure (psi) = HP...it's just that simple. There you go thinking like an engineer again ;)