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That makes the price $525 + shipping. If you're not going the single piece route...this is an outstanding price, especially since it has new u-joints and a new center bearing. BTW - a DS may look perfect, but the rubber inside the aft section can be all crapped up. You'll never know it till...

Or you could drop the coin on an aluminum rear, 2 piece DS that includes new u-joints and a new center bearing: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62442 A lot of the stock drive shafts are out of phase due to the rubber twisting up in the rear section.

It should have shut off ;) That means you have pirate air getting in somewhere (assuming the TB plate is closed).

Well, you could always try the one you have...depends on what you think your time is worth if you have to drop the DS again and replace it anyway. If it were me, I wouldn't use it.

A new one from the dealer is over $200 or you could do this: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76059 A single piece DS is also an option.

That's the rubber in the center bearing...I would not use it. The DS will shake, clunk, etc.

I'd like to hear it ;) I've always liked watching stuff explode too...:biglaugh:

Do you have a problem with reading comprehension? I didn't post the ARP spec sheet just for giggles. I could care less what you have your studs torqued to or what you've "heard"...90-95 ft/lbs is an over torque and erodes the safety margin ARP designs for it's hardware. Considering the...

Do it Jayson and I'll put in the Ref Section.

Well, as you found out, that idle screw doesn't do squat for you...the ECU will just signal the ISCV to change your idle. It is set from the factory and should not be adjusted. This is how you set the TPS: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=101 A gumby...

Either that or he messed with the "idle" screw some early TB's have...that is not good :3d_frown: The code 51 has to be fixed 1st or the ECU doesn't go into idle speed control like JJ said.

And how about a better (descriptive) thread title...fixed. You need to read this: Dealing with the "oldschool" guys (or: How to ask smart questions..)

I'd like to know how you "set it higher to around 1k"?

Ignore this guy...he's buzzed alright...another one that's pulling ARP torque numbers out of his arse. ARP studs are torqued to 80 ft/lbs using moly: I would chase the block threads. Installing the studs (assuming your studs have the hex on top) is actually easier once the head is on...

Not a lot of difference vibration wise...the square mounts are more stout IMO. Randy sells square poly mounts: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62941

Did you read the instructions that came with the Trasko? ;) You have to unscrew the blue nut Then gently pry the end cap off.

My RC's came with a flow report.

Heat the ATI damper up in a pot of boiling water...it will go on easier with the antiseize.

Ummm...why don't you PM Aaron and get 1st hand info ;)

Aaron sells Siemens Deka Injectors...they are made by Siemens VDO Automotive based in Regensburg, Germany. They are on par with RC, Lucas, Delphi, etc.