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True statement...you can use a filter on the ISCV once you are running speed density on the AEM. You will need a vac source to make the catch can work. Vac from the FFIM, you will need a check valve to prevent a boost leak. Might want to think about having an AN-8 bung welded on the FFIM...

He removed material from the base of the cam caps...what should have happened next was a line bore to restore the saddles/caps back to round. What he has is a bunch of elliptical shaped holes the cam bearings are sitting in. It's no wonder the cams are hard to turn.

Yep...plenty big enough. Just to be sure there's not a chunk of crap in it. Glad you like them...should help with the under hood temps quite a bit ;)

Yes...in a good solvent, then blow out with air. Might be a good idea to run a flexible wire through as well.

Just checked a new Toyota pump...there's about 1/16" in/out play on the gear moving on the drive shaft...there's minuscule play on the shaft itself, less than 1/32". The gear also has about 1/16" side-to-side play. You might be able to change the squirter bolts with the crank installed, but...

Reset the ECU by pulling the EFI fuse. An AFPR needs to hit the top of your to-do list...did you drill out the J tube?

Blocking off the ISC confirms a leak somewhere on the FFIM (assuming the TB plate is fully closed)...I'm thinking your ISCV is fine. Based on what you did with the starter fluid, it looks like your FFIM flange is not straight/flat and is the source of the pirate air. BTW - using a mini filter...

Oil should not get over 210-220 deg F.

^^^ One of the truest posts I've read here ;)

No.

The EGR is inop at idle on a stock set-up anyway...it should not have an effect. However, the EGR suppresses detonation above idle to ~4000 RPM...the USDM ECU fuel/timing maps are "tuned" with the EGR in place. Be aware that high engine load (with the EGR removed) in the above RPM range can...

You really do need a fan shroud you know ;)

:joshers:

These would work well too: http://perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page15.html

Ummm...it's a loop in the air flow coming in from the front of the car. If you like your PS pump, you'll leave it there hooked up like it's suppose to be.

Fixed ;)

It wasn't approved because the pics don't work. You need to fix it ;)

Halon ;)

There's a WB output and a narrow band emulation output on the PLX (I have the PLX 300). If you are using the stock ECU, you have the use the NB output emulation in conjunction with a pair of resistors in the wiring from the PLX to the ECU. Check to be sure you are using the correct output...

No, you were wrong by promoting hearsay...doesnt matter if it was 10, 20, or 100 ft/lbs. Next time, KNOW what you're talking about before you post - be prepared to back it up. And, If I'm a jerk by telling you that straight up front and correcting your so called "knowledge"...so be it.