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heh, I'm not making a downpipe for supras, I just wanted to know if anyone wanted the file so they could get flanges machined. ...With that being said, a CT12B dual downpipe would be very interesting. I may have to invest in some CT12Bs to try it out.

http://members.shaw.ca/annoyingrob/Supra%20Sounds/Exhaust.mp3 Try this. It's a recording of my car idling, then revving to 5k (2-step) and letting off. It's not EXACTLY what you're looking for, but it might work.

I run about 80wrms into my CDT 6.5s (the kevlar cone euroframe ones), and with an 80hz highpass on them, 80w is plenty of power for them. "Just right" sounds good :) What I meant was don't even bother amping the rear speakers. Focus on the fronts.

Heh, A guy I know sold his PT Cruiser Turbo, and bought a new SRT4. Guess what? It's the exact god damn same car. All the performance parts even transferred right over.

I posted this over on SF too, but thought you guys might want to see this. I drew up a replica of the exhaust flange on the CT12A turbos in AutoCAD so that I could get some flanges machined up. I still need to get some prototypes made up to check fittment, but they match up almost perfectly...

I would check the SF marketplace. I picked up a set of USDM 550 side feeds there a little while back for cheap.

Yeah, that's the redesigned grille. The older ones only came down to the bottom of the handle. (which IMO, looks more natural) It has to be a 6.5" speaker in that thing. If you take the door appart, and measure the distance from screw to screw around the edge, you'll get 6.5".

Because a GA70 is real badass...... Haha, no I'm just joking with you on that one. Seriously, it's a cool car. I would check the heater VSV. It's the little valve that opens and closes the coolant flow to the heater core. If it gets stuck, you won't have any heat. Do a search...

This is EXACTLY how my car acts with cams. I have Crower 272 small cores, and a 4.1 rear end. Yeah, the car becomes a bit of a pig out of boost, but after a few days of driving it, you're used to it, and enjoy the crazyness that is 3400+. With a little bit of tuning off boost, the car handles...

To plug in a wall, all you would need is a bridge rectifier (4 diodes, and a small filter capacitor) to change 120VAC to 120VDC. Hell, you could run them off AC, but there would be a small flicker. to hook up 12, I would run all 12 in series. Assuming each LED will draw 20mA, and has a 3v drop...

While we're on the subject of coil plug covers, what's the thread size for the holes? I've always just used bolts that were "sort of right" in the holes.

It's not that the car sits on the rings, that's just rediculous that people think that, and it's not entirely correct. The main reason is to prevent vibrations (which will snap studs). So you have a wheel bolted onto your car, and are stopping and starting your car in traffic, and cruising at...

Can you post some more pics of that? I'm trying to figure out if it's the same as my mystery muffler: BTW, cylindrical mufflers on MKIII = FTL :)

My 91 came with tweeters. My 91 also came with 6.5" speakers. I know they're 6.5s, I've replaced them...... Do your doors have the revised grilles on them? It's posible your car was during a transition or something. I'm sure Jeff Lange would know this......

There is ZERO room under the back seats. The foam literally rests on the frame of the car. There is however room under the front seats. You can easily fit an amp under each seat. Stealth installations FTW. Nothing I would hate more then someone breaking into my car because they saw something...

Yes, get a separate amp for the fronts. Even a small 2x50w amp will make a HUGE difference in clarity. Trust us, it's a GOOD investment.

Nice 2-tone steering wheel :) Those brakes and wheels look hot though.

SF Search is on vacation. What sort of cams were they? If they're gound off the same base circle (like Crower cams) then shims shouldn't be necessary.

Ding! There you go. Why look any further. ...."7M BHG"

Don't make me pull out my 3JZ picture.....