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I meant throttle bypass air. Since the CBV is upstream of the throttle plate it can't be a factor. If the throttle plate is fully closed the only metered air paths are through the ISCV, an opened TB bypass screw (if you have one), and the PCV system. Assuming the ISCV is working the coolant...

Pirate fuel would a better bet along with checking for an open throttle plate or excessive bypass air. Timing is a good call though.

^ It won't. What chip said. Stanislaus County is Enhanced. You'd better have EGR too...

There isn't any "safe mode" for momentary ECU power loss nor will the MIL illuminate when it happens. Another reason to periodically check for codes. Every oil change is a good time. That said it's not uncommon for these cars to run fine yet still set an occasional 11 due to their age. In my...

Dylan, codes aren't the cause of symptoms and clearing them won't repair the underlying fault that set one in the first place. Now if you're asking whether a loss of power to the ECU will make the engine run funky the answer is yes but the loss has to be longer than what it takes to set the...

Innovative. It may even be better than swapping stuff out willy-nilly until it's fixed. The cable would be shorted, either at its terminus or somewhere along its length...

It means there aren't any codes set. The 11 means at one point there was a loss of power, even for a moment, to the ECU. Having a code set doesn't mean there's currently a problem effecting engine operation. The MIL being on means that. The code is a soft fault while the light being on is...

Power Main Relay = Power Windows

Well, 11 can be ground related, just that it usually isn't.

Depends on the code but in most cases no. OP: Reset the ECU and see if the 11 comes back. You may have other codes but they won't be displayed as long as that one is active. If it comes back it'll need to be fixed.

^ Finally. Only took 18 posts. OP: It's not your igniter...

That post is so dumb it must have come from SF. Do yourself a favor and ignore it.

You're welcome. Glad you got it resolved. Proves a schematic, meter, and the Ohm's law thing beats floundering around. There's no site that I'm aware of and although I haven't been inside the box for years in theory there can't be much to the front end circuitry for that function. It should...

In most cases problems aren't EFI electronics related. Btw there are at least three ways to tell what pump is in there without dropping the tank. Think about it.

Well, in your defense it can't be done without a reference. I was simply pointing the connector shapes are different.

Toyota injectors can be identified by simply looking at the connector.

Yep, .4 ohms is not going to fly. No wonder it was blowing the fuse. In this case it doesn't matter if the ECU is plugged in when checking the harness. Test IGSW referenced to E1 on the connector. Should see battery voltage with the key on. If you do, plug the new box in and fire it up. If...

Yeah, I'm afraid it's not looking good. You can ohm between pins IGSW and E1 on the box. Low resistance means the thing is toast. It's either that or the wiring has been dicked with and doesn't match the ECU. If that were the case it wouldn't have worked before though.

^ You be welcome. OP: Not a good sign. Unplug the ECU and see if it still blows. Pray that it does...

1) When measuring voltage on IDL battery negative should be referenced. You should see 5 vdc with the key on. 2) When checking continuity on the other pin (E2) battery negative should also be referenced. Assuming your jumper is making contact it appears your 51 is unrelated to the TPS. Again...