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Lots to know: http://www.batteryfaq.org/ 1) Bad battery connection is poor maintenance. Course, you knew that. 2) Install a PriorityStart module. Over the years they've saved my butt on several occasions. Ebay is a good place to get 'em used if you're unwilling to buy new. 3) As suggested...

Same wiring that powers the injectors powers the coils. CPS uses reluctors...no power required.

Not a relay. Connector C1. Supplies main ECU power among other things. Engine is not gonna run until that's fixed.

Unless the ignition switch is bad all that stuff is dead when the key is off. A simple way to verify that portion of the ignition switch is to verify there's no charge warning light with the key off. You could always unplug the coil packs, igniter, and injector resistor but if the charge light...

With that error code the default value is near sea level @ standard atmospheric conditions. If the MIL being on bothers you (and assuming you had an external HAC sensor) use whatever resistance is needed to apply appx 3.6 vdc to the HAC terminal. Problem solved...

^ That makes way too much sense...

The valve's purpose is obtain maximum performance from the AC system. Bypassing does make a difference. Not one easily felt but metrology doesn't lie.

Try a bigger hammer...

No

Try watching it being crushed...

Glad it worked out. Could be you were testing them incorrectly. Again, polarity is important. I test them either on the car or off by duplicating the conditions they run under. Power supply, scope, airflow source (muffin fan or vacuum cleaner) and a thermal anemometer that's similar to a MAF...

Some can be saved, some can't. Depends on what's wrong. In that case you might get lucky by putting it in an oven at 150 degrees for an hour. If that fails just buy a used one. There are plenty around and even if you get a couple of bad ones they will in total be a lot cheaper than new. Fwiw...

It's not the gas, not the ECU, not the CPS, and not the grounds. All of that should be obvious.

Err, it's not the meter's fault. While incapable of measuring much current directly it's more than capable of doing it indirectly. It's also capable of finding your problem in other ways. It's a tool and like all tools learning to use it properly is important.

It's the R12 versus R134 thing all over again and for the same reasons :) Good point though. FE-36, Halotron and the other clean agent alternatives are still far better than drychem.

od - wall x 2 :icon_razz

^ I was wondering when someone was gonna mention all that. Especially about the meter. Took longer than I thought. Was worth the wait though...

It's unfortunate these events happen because they're almost always preventable. The key is to do modifications and maintenance correctly. That said every car should have an extinguisher and not some cheap dry powdered chemical one. Halon is the way to go. It's expensive but worth it.

Your profile states you have a 91. Therefore: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=8712&P=2

It's not the core as much as if high lead content solder was used in its construction. Testing has shown OEM coolant is very aggressive to it. At least the Toyota extended life stuff is. It's one of the reasons I recommend using G-05 unless the radiator/core is vacuum brazed or the lead content...