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Sounds like timing...

Either will be fine. Just be sure whatever you use is sensor-safe and don't forget to seal the covers with two dabs per EM-56.

^ This. There are several places it can leak externally that are difficult to see. Need a good light and inspection mirror. UV dye is even better.

My pet peeve is when people make their own problems then expect others to undo their screw-ups from afar. Talk about defying logic...

Treasure of Sierra Madre comes to mind. Stereo lithography is cool though.

Both. With VTA wide open the mixture is near best power versus stoichiometric where it would normally be just before boost comes on. Can't leave it like that though. With full on VTA at idle exhaust CO is about 4%. Emissions and fuel economy would be in the toilet.

It's not about voltage. It's about ohm's law.

Yep, that should fix it. Good job. Apologies for being a bit harsh...

I've never definitively answered the question because the cause isn't always the same. It's always one of a very few things however. I'm talking about a loss of ampacity in the starter signal circuit mind you, not the other no-crank issues often mistaken for it. And yeah, pinpointing exactly...

Sigh. OK. Since unlike some here you're making an effort to help yourself, don't write like a 12 year old, and have a thick skin here's the problem: Vc should be 5 volts. It powers all the sensors. No Vc = no VTA. No VTA = code 41. Again, a little RTFM would have made that clear. Snark...

The snarky comments are completely necessary. You come here looking for help, free help given out of the goodness of our hearts mind you, while withholding information that would be crucial to helping you. Worse, you *know* the information being withheld is related to your problem. You are...

Lmao. Such "minor" details can be helpful. Any codes? There should be. Yeah, just push the pedal down quickly halfway or more. As long as the TEMS computer is there the lack of actutors doesn't matter. Or just measure VTA...

It should be around what Kenny said. Does this car have TEMS? If so turn on the key (no need to start the engine) and stab the pedal. If the system goes to firm the TPS is very likely working.

Have you measured the VTA voltage being fed to the Maft?

I personally thought post 6 was better but yeah, ambiguity is a bitch. Lets not jump to conclusions though :icon_razz

Ok. I was just trying to figure out if you have any clue as to what you're doing.

Guess I misunderstood. So the old TPS was verified bad using the book?

How about not use the Maft Pro and use the TSRM instead?

I'm anyone. It isn't meat or cake.

No irony there eh?