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Lmao. There's one born every minute...

1) Huh? It's supposed to idle lower when warm. 2) The cannister tube goes nowhere. It's a purge. 3) The connector appears to be for your coolant VSV.

http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-36200.aspx Google that Lisle p/n and you may find it even cheaper...

Not a place to be cheap. Because of the small quantity diff oil takes a beating. Anything less than high quality and it'll need to be changed often. My preference was Redline NS.

Btw CyFi6 asked a question in that thread and considering this one me thinks it and the answer may be worth repeating:

He does say that but doesn't say if the idle later clears up. Even when everything is working right the idle will increase with the line off because it enriches the mixture. I've lost track of the people who pointed to that and exclaimed "See, vacuum leaks do cause idle up on a Type L!" I...

Ok, I see now. That was an interesting thread. Btw nice to see you're still around. Thought maybe you went to the lav and couldn't come back :icon_razz mk3mark: 1) When the pumps stops the check valve built into it closes and so does the FPR. Those actions trap pressure in the supply side...

Well, any time you have an active code 31 fault you are in fail safe mode. Your 31 must have been old. The 41 is due to the bad TPS. Once replaced it should correct the hesitation but don't expect it to help the cold start problem. You'll need to look elsewhere for that. Edit: beaten by 3p. You...

The regulator at one end and the fuel pump check valve at the other. Simplified photo: http://www.aa1car.com/library/fuel_pump_diagnose.htm

Right. It's the feedback, the "process variable" in automation parlance, that inputs to the system amplifier. Removing the sensor results in an open control loop. That'd be condition A here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=AC&P=41

He can although what he found still can't be definitively blamed for the overheating.

Lol. I have nothing but respect for my learned colleague. You on the other hand :icon_bigg

Ok, 400. Are you bustin' my balls for a particular reason or are we just grumpy today? :icon_razz Alternator go OK? Nick: I remember the hill well. It and the old WWII barracks. That was a long time ago though. Truth is my memories of basic at Jackson aren't bad. It was a lot easier than...

^ Ha. Ain't that the truth. It's amazing how people will mouse a problem rather than fix the root cause.

Hmmm. Dunno what that's about. Not like him. Regardless, we're all wrong on occasion.

If it passed the tests it's good but that crack means it likely won't for long. One reason I dislike molded coils. Residual fuel pressure (rest pressure in Bosch parlance) is pressure that remains in the supply side of the fuel system after the engine and fuel pump are shut off. By keeping...

Ks not used for starting. Not used below 500 rpm. Good to know. I was trying to with the new one :icon_razz

The price for piece of mind must be different on a little forested peninsula than it is in the deserts of the American West :icon_bigg

It comes off. Just have to finagle it some. Still a pain in the butt though. I know the pic you're talking about but can't find it at the moment. I'm sure someone will come to my rescue. I don't keep it at hand because I long ago learned what each sensor does.

If you're referring to the ECU coolant sensor (behind the thermostat) that's normal.