Dunno what the "white smoke coming through the dash" deal is about but thought I'd point out you should change oil before putting a vehicle up for storage not after.
Yea, that was a coolant valve VSV. In my experience the molded coils on these things tend to fail rather than the valve itself. The filters need to be kept on them though. After going through two I finally gave up on OEM and stuck a $16 sub-miniature industrial grade three-way in there. Never a...
I doubt your problem is FPU related. It's possible but unlikely. Many people run without it. You should check rest pressure to be sure it's holding. I was under the assumption the GE didn't have FPU but apparently I'm wrong. That said:
Idle will increase when vacuum is removed from the FPR...
Right. The charger provides voltage close to the charged battery's voltage. The decreased difference in potential limits current.
I'll charge batteries in the car but not while they're connected to the car...
Be sure to hook the charger up first and then the fully charged battery because it's the charger, once activated, that limits current from the fully charged battery. Without it the discharged battery will be charged at an unlimted rate similar to what happens when a dead in-car battery is jumped...
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=46
See that black with blue stripe (B-L) wire near the bottom of the page labeled "to starter"? Follow it to the right.
The ECU does a bunch of things when it sees battery voltage on STA to help the engine start. Among them...
^ You're right. Even under power it's not much of an issue until around 70%.
Yep, you're right. I chuckle when I read some of Reg Riemer's stuff. Not to take anything away from him but much of what he wrote is lifted directly from the factory TCCS books. Jeff Montigny was the guy with the Vf...
Those are worn but should be OK. At least you got to them before the brush springs did. Polish 'em lightly, bed the brushes in (or not), and it should be good to go. Blow out what the old brushes used to be or pull it apart and do it. That way you can tighten up/eyeball everything and change the...
I can easily say that. Of course power and ground are important but they're not a factor in this case. As I said, all things considered. I can see how a layperson like yourself would think otherwise though.
Lmao. Sure you did. And I'm sure everyone can duplicate it on their cars. I just...
I meant a short upstream. There may indeed be current limiting internal to the ECU. I suspect there may be since it monitors current within a window. Now you've got me wondering. Maybe we can get 3P to check it out and we'll both learn something :icon_bigg
Note that states for GTE only. There's also different DTC behaviors depending on where the car was meant to be sold.
I'm saying I've never seen a 21 on an 87 or 88 from any cause. It usually comes up on later models with an open heater circuit, wrong sensor, or the sensor unplugged. A for real...
The sputtering. All things considered the odds your problem was caused by loose wiring is exceedingly low. About the same as it being caused by the ECT power button. Timing could be involved however.
It is an improvement. I was mainly referring to some of the things being said. The hardware isn't perfect but if there was a real problem with it I would have posted earlier. Don't sweat it.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=26
I've never seen a 21 caused by the OX signal but since the book lists it I'll not going to say it can't happen. Nor have I seen a 21 caused by a low heater current on early model years.
I hold back a lot. Too much at times :icon_razz
OP: Not going to beat anyone down. What you've done isn't a bad thing. Just that you're sharing something in the belief it's electrically correct when it may not be but as long as nothing dangerous is being done there's no need to pick stuff apart.
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