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Ah hell, who doesn't like shooting flames out their exhaust? I love it :)

I have the link at home of a site that did a huge shootout of sound deadeners. Fom what I remember, peel and seal didn't do so well. Plus, it stinks.

Toyota Tacoma Blue! Very similar to WRX blue.

No. I believe people usually say the W58 is only good for about 300whp. Might as well go with the R154 in that case.

Really? Becasue I run a 4" core, and have TONS of room. Those end-tanks WOULD fit, but those mounts on the endtanks will prevent you from tucking it up nicely. Teh top of the IC sits at the top of the bumper support. There's atleast an inch more room behind the core. The end tanks are very...

No. Antilag is dangerous because you're detonating your charge within the exhaust system sending huge shock loads through your turbo. A 2-step is simply retarding ignition (much less then an anti-lag) and/or simply cutting ignition.

Yeah, the R154 is stronger, yeah, it's notchier shifting. /thread

http://members.shaw.ca/annoyingrob/Supra%20Pics/Seat%20Damage/Seat%20Hires%203.jpg You can wipe the drool from your face now :) Oh, and I bet none of you have the super-awesome 5-piece brake lights either ;)

No it's NOT a direct swap. The bolt holes are all off. I already tried this myself. The cover's slightly longer for teh 2JZ one too, as the first cam bearing cap is covered with the 2JZ cover, but not the 1JZ cover.

No it won't affect running. It MIGHT throw a code if it can't see the secondary TPS, so you may want to leave that connected. I don't know why you wouldn't want it. I would love to have traction control on my car. :)

IDLE SPEED CONTROL VALVE! Try plugging that tube that goes behind the head to the ISCV. If the RPMs drop, that tells you the valve has stuck open.

I use a blade from a utility knife. Yeah, just put a snake of it around. You don't need a whole lot, except where the pan goes around the crank, you need a little more there. Don't just use plain old silicone either. Go to the dealership, and get a tube of FIPG. It's a couple bucks, and is...

The "Right spot" Is when the IDL and power (E2 I think) line JUST has continuity with a 0.4mm spacer on the throttle stop. 2JZ calls for a 0.6mm spacer, which will work, but the 1JZ calls for a slightly smaller space. I'm sure this is the third thread on this already :)

Yes it will, but NEVER run a non-dampened pulley on a daily driver.

There are two parts being discussed here. There is the pulley itself, which is the same, then there is the spring loaded arm that the pulley is attached to. The arm on the 2JZ I believe is longer then the 1JZ one.

Not all 2JZs were mechanical. The Aristo used a hydrofan.

I'm not seeing the auction. Is it just the Japanese 1JZ manual that is already posted on this site?

Yellow :)

I finally got my 1.5JZ all back together and installed in my car before I went off on vacation, only to notice a coolant leak. Long story short, the water pump is cracked in half and needs replacing. So, I'm just curious how much work I have ahead of me tomorrow. Can I take the lower timing...

Toluene. My mom works at a paint store, so I can get discounts on drums of it :)