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Before you insult a guy's intelligence (especially a guy like me), you might want to look stuff like this up in the future. I could have used language to made you look a lot dumber than I did ;)

Those became std in 1990 I believe.

Were the injectors cleaned/flow tested? Is there a Lex AFM on the intake hose? (might want to confirm...they look a lot alike)

You guys kill me: http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/antifreeze-radiator-products/antifreeze/42 Ever think it just might come both ways ;) (you really think I would tell you to mix a 50/50 pre-mix?)

Looks like it went lean and tried to torch the pistons. #6 looks like it never set the rings and the oil kept it cool enough to stop what was happening to the rest of the pistons. What was used to tune this motor? What injectors?

This coolant is for the newer Toyota cars...it's chemistry is different than the red. It should work fine though. If you want to buy pre-mix, this is also available: http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/antifreeze-radiator-products/antifreeze/105 Same chemistry as Toyota Red in...

You ran it a "couple quarts low"? Do you realize all it takes with oil low like that is one good sustained turn (like on a highway overpass curve) or a rapid acel/decel and the oil pick-up gets uncovered? That means your rod bearings go without oil for xxx amount of time. Guess what? Rod...

And, (depending on the rings) a lot of people have had issues. It's like fitting a Cometic MHG on a block that has not been decked...do you feel lucky, well do you.....? Not good enough odds for me. The hard break-in works 100% of the time.

How do you know this?

Because the steel Toyota uses in their blocks is very hard. Depending on the rings one uses can cause an "extended" break-in period or it may never break-in at all. This will cause blow by and the motor will use more oil than normal. The hard brake-in depends on engine vacuum during the decel...

If you can feel any "lip" between the block deck ant the timing cover, it's too high and will not seal. I am 100% sure on this one. You want to lay the MHG on the block deck a look at the rivets holding the MHG together. If an rivet touches the deck, remove it or the same thing will happen.

Yes. If it is not level with the block deck (or slightly less), the HG will not seal. Also, 1-2mm difference is an awful lot....how much did they take off the block deck? It's a good thing you noticed it now ;)

All conventional coolant uses Ethylene Glycol...including Prestone green, Toyota Red, Zeryx G05, GM DexCool, etc. The difference is the additive chemistry. The green coolants are heavily on the silicates. Toyota Red is HOAT that uses phosphates. Zyrex is also HOAT with a small amount of...

Lucas is snake oil...and so is just about every other oil additive out there. Why you would use it to break in a motor is beyond my comprehension.

We don't play "guessing games" in the Tech sections ;) (thread moved)

This is how to do a complete fluid change: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3179

I've never fitted that plug either, so I can't say. The one you drove in with the tool looks good...maybe a tad deep, but I would not pull it. BTW - how did the drive disk work for you?

The stock HG is 1.37mm compressed. A MHG does not compress ;)

It's good you didn't clean it...typically those that do end up buying a new set of electronics. The MAF cleaners sold in parts stores is a sure fire way to trash the mirror in the sensor. While you're poking around there, check the accordion hose for cracks/leaks.

Code 31 is the AFM or it's circuit. Start by checking the connector to the AFM. Clear codes by pulling the EFI fuse for 30 sec and drive. Re-check codes to see if it is still present. Did you happen to clean the AFM recently? There are several different codes that will not illuminate the...