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Might want to read this: http://www.supramania.com/aehaas/

You are going to need to check the clearances to see...anything else is a guess. It's not strange at all for clearances to be off on two different heads. You could pull the injector plus one at a time to see if it stops.

The only way to eliminate the valves is to check the clearances.

What kind of cam gears?

Nothing independent. Oil analysis for guys using that filter (other cars) have been very good particulate wise.

If the head has been annealed, it's soft. The exhaust studs are not going to hold either. You can do what you like, but no way I would use that head...it should have been hardness tested before it was worked/installed.

Yep...a properly tuned motor will run all day at those boost levels. You have to be careful though, you detonate at all and it's done. Personally, I'd drop it down a bit (safety margin) and be happy ;)

Depends on which one you get...the premix should have no water added. I always (used to anyway) got the 100% bottle.

Never had the "burp" the cooling system on this car. If it's in good working order, you shouldn't have too ;)

Looks like a Lex to me. Put the stock electronics on it and if the module fits, you got yourself a good deal ;)

Was it at the back of the head? Sounds like an annealed head. Hate to tell you this, but if it is, that head is junk.

Fonz - Also check the hose in the reservoir...if it has any tears, splits, etc it will pull air back in vs coolant when the engine cools down. I would test the T-stat you have in a pot of water by bringing it to a boil. You'll need a 250 deg thermometer. Note the temp when it opens. If you...

What did you torque to? That's a pretty good sign the head has annealed from an over heat. :(

G05 is superior IMO ;) If you notice, that new "red" coolant only comes in a 50/50 premix for now. I've got to where I tell a guy to do the block test right off the bat...not that expensive. That way one can focus on solving the real issue if it's positive or negative. It's a great...

Once you stop pissing out coolant, Zerex G05 Zum mentioned is excellent, or Toyota Red. Valvoline (Zerex) makes a version of the red now as well...phosphate HOAT chemistry just like Toyota. Any of the above will require a very through flush of the system to change from green. Mario - Watch...

Water wetter does not play well with some coolants...Toyota Red is one of them. Using it in straight water for the track is fine though.

That's just it...it does not matter what coolant you use. Coolant simply transfers heat to the radiator...they all work the same and use the same chemical (Ethylene Glycol). The difference is in the additives and level of corrosion protection. If you are pushing coolant out like you...

For guys that are hard headed and/or don't listen...I can see why you would say that ;) I already told you what I would do...of course, you dismissed it right away. It's a hot iron black after all...why would you want to eliminate one of the top causes coolant is pushed out of the...

Right...that's not overheating :sarcasm: And, exhaust gas doesn't push coolant out of the radiator either. LOL...do what you want. After denial is not a river in Egypt :biglaugh:

Ummm...hate to tell you this, but it's not because "7M's tend to get hot cause of the Iron Block". If you are having overheat problems or the coolant is overflowing the reservoir, you need to look elsewhere. First thing I would do is go buy a NAPA block tester and see if there is exhaust gas...