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Put a ceramic coat on it and that will change!

Moved for this ^^^ Falken - do not post in the wrong section again.

Pull ECU codes. Next time it does it, wiggle the CPS wires while a helper cranks. To test what Zum said, pull the vac line off the FPR and crank...the VSV opens to atmosphere to increase FP for a hot start.

Dry film on the journals is fine...make sure you double check clearances. Ceramic on the crank is a waste of $$$. Spend it on a 7M crank weight reduction & knife edge.

Must be on SF ;) That is correct, RP has friction modifiers in it...not good for a R154.

Royal Purple is not one of the oils to use in these trannys ;)

Is the CPS lined up like this with the cam gears pointing at the index and damper pointing at zero: It sounds like it is...just checking. You might want to check that the #1 piston is at TDC...get a chopstick and insert in the spark plug hole. It should achieve max height when the...

It should be fine to store with that fill...I would take it out for a 30 min highway run to get the oil nice and hot, then store. Assuming your PCV is good, it should burn off any condensation, etc. Do a change before you take it out next year.

Swap questions belong in Other Engine Tech...thread moved. Suggest you read the stickies in this section.

Thread moved...not a 7M-GE Tech question.

That is usually for a line that T's in to a plastic hard line along the firewall. It goes to the heater control valve, cruise control actuator and boost gauge.

Well, as usual, that depends ;) What oil do you run and what length trips do you usually take? Specifically, does the oil get up to ops temp for 20-30 min at a constant RPM?

Part #? Or, do you know if they are ISO or JIS length? +1 on the need to be gapped ;)

That is perfectly normal...I am confused...when does it die? Keep something else in mind...when you clear codes, many will not come back until the car is run. It is always a good idea to recheck for codes after a clear code-start-run cycle.

This is actually normal...at idle the TB plate should be fully closed, effectively doing the same thing. The ISCV is supplying air to the intake manifold ;) Do this instead: Block off air at the ISCV hose by pinching it shut. The motor dies, you do not have an air leak...if it runs, you...

Completely uncalled for. If you have a beef with me, take it to SupraCentral...otherwise, keep this kind of crap out of here.

Code 11 masks all other codes when it is present...I saw you had this previously (you could have told me). You cleaned the ECU grounds going to the intake manifold? Seriously, if you want help you are going to need to be more forthcoming with info, history, etc. It's getting old fast asking...

The ISCV has a check valve under it to prevent reverse flow to the accordion hose under boost. As a test (only...don't run this way) remove the ISCV, remove the check valve, reinstall ISCV and start. If it does not stall, replace the check valve with a new one. The ISCV hoses are routed to...

You removed the ISCV and check valve to clean both? How did you clean the check valve?

The ISCV, it's air path, or the check valve under it is clogged up. Or, the ISCV is not working....does it click open when you shut down? (should be able to hear it) I assume you cleared any previous codes.