This is not a Tech question...thread moved. Pay attention to where you post.
In addition, you already asked a question like this:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1407098
You were told to look through the Articles section. There is a search tutorial in the intro section as...
That's not unexpected for an ECU temp sensor. It takes a bit for the ECU to detect improper voltage. There's a test in the TSRM EFI section for that sensor...I'd give it shot before I spent $$$ on another one. (could be your wiring)
This is normal. The IDL part of the TPS is a switch that simply tells the ECU when the TB plate is full shut...code 51 is the indication when the TB plate is open or the AC button is on.
Need to be more specific...what RPM is your "high idle". What RPM does it drop to when it warms up? Unless you provide details, there is absolutely nothing I can tell you to do.
The 7M has a step motor Idle Speed Control Valve (ISCV) that is ECU controlled based on start, coolant temp, AC operation and alternator load. It steps full open at engine shut down and is not user adjustable. It would be helpful if we knew what the problem is or what it is you want to do.
Got some new info on this (thanks Steve!) and the real answer is it depends. Toyota "Pink" can refer to two different coolants...here's the info in the TSB:
- Toyota "Red" is referred to by Toyota as Long Life Coolant (LLC) with a service interval of 30,000 miles.
- Toyota "Pink" (as referred...
No problem guys...believe me, I have looked way more stupid in the past than you can imagine ;)
Reading what a guy has to say, it's hard to tell meaning at times...I have not had any problem with either of you. That's the reason I asked....guess I'm getting gun shy due to some of the more...
I'm confused. What different coolant...G05?
If that's the case, you said you wanted to use Toyota Red (which is fine) and I directed you to the Zerex Asian. I do feel G05 is a better coolant, but I'm not going to argue with a guy that wants to use Toyota Red (or Zerex Asian)...either is a very...
Not too sure how to interpret this Koenig.
Knowledge is simple. Before I make a post like Bri7man did above, I make sure I have all the facts...I look it up in the TSRM, web site, MDS, oil spec sheet, etc. Even though I may think I know the answer...keeps me from looking stupid (most of the...
Those donut shaped burn marks on 5 of the pistons between the valve cut-outs...the surface should be flat. Compare to the other side...if it's not identical, the piston is FUBAR.
You've been around for almost 3 years and posted this in the Intro section?
Then, you posted a duplicate thread in General...might want to think about what you're doing before you click the mouse button.
Thread moved.
You're welcome ;)
Hard to tell from the pics, but if there is a depression melted out where the spots are...you need to get new ones. The head "should" be fine unless there's damage...even minor damage to the seats can be fixed with 0.5mm OS valves. I would have it hardness tested before I...
Both AFM's have the bolt/screw...it's covered with a pressed in aluminum cap on both.
Those injectors should have been cleaned. Has the CT26 waste gate been shimmed (washers) for more boost?
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