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^^^ Exactly! "Limp Mode" is a BS term...it does not exist. A mode that does not exist has no place in any Tech section discussion....period. There is also a back-up function for ECU microprocessor failure...this is bad. Do any of you guys have a clue as to what causes the TCCS to go into...

Would someone care to explain to me exactly what "Limp Mode" is and what it's symptoms are?

Translater Pro Electonic Module = MAFT pro? Guess I missed that.

You know, when I read a question like this it indicates that you have done zero reading in the Lube section...or, this thread for that matter. It's just plain lazy. If you don't have the time to do even the smallest amount of research, I don't have the time to answer a question like this.

LOL...me too ;) Don't worry about the cold viscosity in therms of it being too "thin"...it can never be too low a viscosity. Think about it: GC has a cold viscosity of 66.8 cst...that is over 5 times the ops temp viscosity (12.1 cst) that the engine spends 90% of it's time at. It is not...

Only in the sense of the amount of time that oil circulation warms it up to ops temp. Oil always gets thinner as it gets hot. The "cold" specs you listed above are at 40 deg C, that's 104 deg F. Once the oil in your motor achieves the above temp it will continue to thin to the 100 deg C...

Or a massive boost leak.

Oil is rated at a "cold" viscosity of 40 deg C...that equals to 104 deg F. Do the same experiment with your favorite 20W-50 and GC 0W-30 by leaving both bottles outside on a 70 deg night...want to make a $100 bet on which is going to be faster to the bottom? ;) This brings up a very good...

Looks like a few things need clarification here ;) First - the stock gauge is accurate...slow, yes...it is accurate. Second - think of synthetic oil as a top shelf vodka...highly refined, all give you the desired results, and it comes down to how how well it performs for you (or your motor)...

Ahhh....missed that ;) His pressures are normal, though at the low end of spec. If he has a lot of miles on this motor, it could very well be a case of worn bearings. Using a 5W-40 would squeeze a bit more life out of them...go for an oil with the lowest viscosity you can cold. Like I said...

Pennzoil Platinum 10W-30 is not too thick...in fact, it is an excellent choice for the 7M. If you get the TSRM pressures at idle/3000 RPM, use it and be happy. A 5W-20 on the other hand is too thin IMO. However, it's been used with success in this motor...if you do use a 20W oil, I would do...

Add to that list a Winchester 1200 Defender...got one under my bed loaded with 6 shots of #4 Buck ;) Any moron that comes in your house, hears you rack up a round, and doesn't run like hell is either really stupid or on some serious drugs.

You want to use a 180 deg stat. That will allow oil flow to the cooler a bit sooner so it can do it's job. Depending on the size of the cooler, the oil will achieve temps above 180 degs easily...especially under hard driving conditions. Your logic is flawed...a higher temp stat is for drag...

Take a look at www.GunBroker.com and do a search. It will give you an idea of market value and you might run across a good deal.

^^^ Agreed...the Sig without a doubt.

If you have two samples of the same exhaust gas, is the Air Fuel Ratio going to be different? (think about what the sensor is measuring)

Think about this for a minute...AFR = Air Fuel Ratio. All the wastegate will do on a DDP is divert exhaust gas to a different path.

Yep ;) Moved to the Intro section. Start by reading the stickies here. Welcome to SM.

Keep a couple things in mind in mind: - There's not that much water from condensation in the oil...if you have enough in the oil to "flash" you have much bigger problems. - Oil viscosity drops rapidly above 100 deg C...running a thicker oil is not the answer.