That is essentially correct...peak voltage occurs at 7kHz. The 7M ECU pulls timing based on this voltage, with the max amount pulled at 7kHz. The book I have shows a bell shaped curve with peak at 7kHz.
The knock sensor contains a piezoelectric element that generates voltage. It hits max volts at 7kHz. The type used in the 7M generates high voltage over a broader range of vibration frequencies. Unfortunately, the book I have is not specific on what that voltage is. The only way to figure...
RP is notorious for doing that. From that analysis, it does look like the additive pack has improved though...I see RP is still using a stout amount of ZDDP (zinc) in their formulation. Helps explain the low wear numbers even though the oil sheared down to 20W viscosity.
This is not a 7M-GTE Tech question...thread moved.
If you read the Red Line spec sheet on this oil, you will find it's designed for heavy loading like you would see on a drag car. Not much point in using it IMO when MT-90 will do a better job for the street.
This is a true statement...the wider the viscosity range, the more VI is required to meet the SAE grade. That means the oil has less base stock (real oil) by volume per quart. This is especially true for Grp III based stock oils...PAO or ester based synthetics don't require the same levels of...
We have our 15W-50 "believers" here in the USA too...same logic backed up by hearsay.
Using a thick oil requires motor modification...open up the bearing clearances, large cooler w/ -10 lines, shimmed pump, accumulator, etc. For a stock motor it's not a good thing to use IMO.
I'm betting the Mk III German users manual is identical to USDM...yes, show me where Toyota says to use a 10W-60 or 5W-50 (your previous "recommendation"). In fact, the User Manual oil specification for a 10W-30 is the largest ops range for the 7M. Since the MkIII manual is 20 years old, oil...
Show me where Toyota suggests using a 10W-40 in a 7M or JZ series engine.
Show me where oil manufacturers say using a 0W-30 is dangerous for "old" engines.
If you are going to say crap like this, you will provide the source or you will STFU. If you want to pump a fluid with the viscosity of...
It also depends on what oil the engine was designed to use. Read the Motor Oil 101 link in my sig (or posted above)...note what the author uses in his Ferrari ;)
The solution to high oil temps is a bigger cooler, not thicker oil.
A worn engine with larger bearing clearances as a result and...
Give this a read:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70271
Worn bearing is a very good reason to run a 5W-40 and Amsoil 5W-40 fits the bill nicely.
It sounds like your oil pressure is normal though. there are a couple other different ways to increase pressure...the biggest...
Royal Purple XPR Racing oils are not suitable for a street car. It does not have the additives necessary to keep the oil viable for street conditions. Just because something says "race" in it's label does not make it good ;)
Suggest you research this section and come up with a different oil.
- A 1JZ non-turbo AFM will not work...the Turbo ECU looks for a frequency (hz). Test per above.
- Vac leaks will not cause a code 31...a boost leak will make the symptoms worse though.
- If the car dies like that, it is likely related to this problem.
Why don't you test the AFM like Grim...
For the average OAT in WA state, you want a stock 190 T-stat...either Toyota or a Stant SuperStat. Any other brand is crap. before you cut the jiggle valve off, I would test it in a pot of boiling water...while it heats up, not when it opens. I've bought brand new stats that did not open when...
22 in/lbs is correct...where people screw this up and snap a bolt off is they torque to 22 ft/lbs. Huge difference ;)
An internal star washer between the bolt head and the seal gromment will keep the bolt from loosening up.
The Karman Vortex AFM uses a very small foil mirror to reflect light from a diode. Use any type of Carb, MAF, etc cleaner and the mirror will haze. It's a sure fire way to FUBAR the electronics.
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