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Some do but most don't, I still have my original.

Not any power gains just keeps the intake a little cleaner.

The radiator looks like it's seen better days which means the rest of the system is probably the same. How's it look inside the radiator? Don't know if it would help to flush out the system with a radiator flush, then maybe change out the thermostat and cap. Check for leaks and fill with 50/50...

Don't you mean brake disks. I have a 88 and 4 wheel disks. The only springs are the little spring wires that keep the pads away from the rotor. Any parts place would be able to get the pads, the little spring wires(anti squeel springs) I don't think the parts places can get them.

If it is the worng one then the pick up is in the wrong place, once you pull it and try to put the old one on you will see what we are talking about.:)

I think it should be the other way around. Cuel gave you a very good link

Have you noticed any white milky deposits on the inside of the oil cap? Or any evidence of water in the oil?

You might want to make sure the cam gears are were they are suppose to be now . If the tension wasn't right it may have slipped. Yes could be the whole timming thing as why it isn't starting.

I guess you should make one up and just exit the two pipes out the passenger side, I bet that would make a few extra hp/tq, and sound nice with that extra stroke:naughty:

Can't answer that question about the carbon build up, I guess I should have said it's usally the cause of a higher than normal compression pressure. I also can't answer why with 10,000 miles on a fairly fresh motor you have one cylinder down that much from the others.

Hard to say at this point. I would pull it and see what's what. Then decide what and how far you want to go with it. You may have to have the block bored which would mean new pistons. As far as guessing how much it will cost would be a crap shoot right now. I'd call around to some shops and try...

Good possiblity, did you time it with a timming light and the jumper wire?

I believe that's true with any motor, to be able to take advantage of cams you have to have other mods.

All the above and more, a complete rebuild. If you just go part way you'll probably be sorry later that you didn't. Valves don't nessary need replaced the shop can check them and springs, I'd just let the shop check everything out on the motor and go from there if you don't have the means to...

Nice looking header also. It looks like the primaries are a little more even in length to the collectors. So the most important part is to get them even to the collectors? And 3 into 1 works the best?

That much compression may mean too much carbon build up. On a fresh motor with 10.5-1 pistons I had 190lbs.

Well from the looks of that Pacesetter you're a cuttin' and a tryin' :)

Comp test isn't hard to do and you can borrow a comp tester at Autozone or someplace. The ticking, can you tell if it's comming from the block? That many miles could be piston slap, I think that has a ticking sound. If it's comming from the head could easily be the valve lash needs adjusted...

Have you done a compression test?

If is one of those Unorthodox one that maybe the ticking.