Spring is approaching, and have a few problems to deal with

d_block.5

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Jun 14, 2007
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With spring approaching in a couple months, I want to have my car running well for the summer. Understanding that my 86.5 is my daily driver in which i rarely put more than 6,000 miles a year on. I am going to be laid off from my job for two months from march to may and plan on doing some getting my car in good shape mechanically. It burns alittle oil, about a quart every 3 weeks and the coolant light is always on though the radiator is always full as is the overflow.

I'm not the greatest mechanic as I rarely have free time to do my own work. I've changed exhausts, under-drive pulley, water pump/thermostat, various suspension compenents so I have a general knowledge of my vehicle. I plan to tear the head off of the car and replace the head gasket/studs on my vacation and attempt to fix the following...

The problems I've been having for the past six months are:

1) Low oil pressure: Idle being between the 1st and 2nd notch before 40 in/lb, and under load ranging from the 2nd notch to a bit under 40 in/lb.

2) Clicking noise that I have not been able to localize with a stethoscope, it comes and goes under acceleration. This is also the second time it has happened, the first it was coming from the woodruff key which was bent to hell inside the under drive pulley which I had replaced. Needless to say it came back a day later.

3) Misfiring: This one really boggles me, my car starts up beautifully, idles great, and warms up normally. But from what I've noticed when I get on the highway which is literally right next to where I work, travel down it for 3 miles, get off, and continue driving, my car will start misfiring and hesitating. This does not always happen, but when it does its a pain in the ass.

This is the sum of my problems, as I said I'll have two months to gather parts and fix whatever be. I really love my supra and don't wanna get rid of it even though its terribly slow (why I have a crotch rocket lol).

I want to be prepared, so any insight is welcomed from you knowledgeable supra owners!
 

AJ'S 88NA

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Jul 26, 2007
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d_block.5;941616 said:
With spring approaching in a couple months, I want to have my car running well for the summer. Understanding that my 86.5 is my daily driver in which i rarely put more than 6,000 miles a year on. I am going to be laid off from my job for two months from march to may and plan on doing some getting my car in good shape mechanically. It burns alittle oil, about a quart every 3 weeks and the coolant light is always on though the radiator is always full as is the overflow.

I'm not the greatest mechanic as I rarely have free time to do my own work. I've changed exhausts, under-drive pulley, water pump/thermostat, various suspension compenents so I have a general knowledge of my vehicle. I plan to tear the head off of the car and replace the head gasket/studs on my vacation and attempt to fix the following...

The problems I've been having for the past six months are:

1) Low oil pressure: Idle being between the 1st and 2nd notch before 40 in/lb, and under load ranging from the 2nd notch to a bit under 40 in/lb.

2) Clicking noise that I have not been able to localize with a stethoscope, it comes and goes under acceleration. This is also the second time it has happened, the first it was coming from the woodruff key which was bent to hell inside the under drive pulley which I had replaced. Needless to say it came back a day later.

3) Misfiring: This one really boggles me, my car starts up beautifully, idles great, and warms up normally. But from what I've noticed when I get on the highway which is literally right next to where I work, travel down it for 3 miles, get off, and continue driving, my car will start misfiring and hesitating. This does not always happen, but when it does its a pain in the ass.

This is the sum of my problems, as I said I'll have two months to gather parts and fix whatever be. I really love my supra and don't wanna get rid of it even though its terribly slow (why I have a crotch rocket lol).

I want to be prepared, so any insight is welcomed from you knowledgeable supra owners!

How many miles on the motor? Sounds mostly like a tired motor.
 

d_block.5

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Jun 14, 2007
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have not done a compression test, i've been wanting to but can never get ahold of my unreliable subaru friend to run one for me and really dont want to get it done at a shop.

i guess it would tell if i had a BHG, which would probably explain the misfiring, but I intend to replace the head gasket immediately the first week i am off.
 

AJ'S 88NA

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Jul 26, 2007
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d_block.5;941669 said:
have not done a compression test, i've been wanting to but can never get ahold of my unreliable subaru friend to run one for me and really dont want to get it done at a shop.

i guess it would tell if i had a BHG, which would probably explain the misfiring, but I intend to replace the head gasket immediately the first week i am off.
Comp test isn't hard to do and you can borrow a comp tester at Autozone or someplace. The ticking, can you tell if it's comming from the block? That many miles could be piston slap, I think that has a ticking sound. If it's comming from the head could easily be the valve lash needs adjusted.

If you plan on pulling the head just to replace the HG, with that many miles I would just plan on rebuilding it. To just pull the head to replace the HG on a tired motor you still will probably have the same problems.
 

d_block.5

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Jun 14, 2007
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how deep would i have to go for a rebuild? i want to avoid pulling the motor . are you talking: machining the head, replacing valves etc or going for the cylinders and doing a complete rebuild?
 

AJ'S 88NA

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All the above and more, a complete rebuild. If you just go part way you'll probably be sorry later that you didn't. Valves don't nessary need replaced the shop can check them and springs, I'd just let the shop check everything out on the motor and go from there if you don't have the means to check it out youself. The main wear items like rings, bearings, etc, yes they would have to be replaced if you want to keep it running for a while. The valve springs would be a good idea to replace, there are some chevy springs that fit and are a good upgrade.
Ity's just best to tear it down and check everything to see what needs replacing and go from there as to what you want to do. Personally I would rebuild what you have as opposed to buying a used JDM or other as you should tear those down also and check everything, replace the oil pump, etc. And at least you know what you have now. I've went the rout of JDM and ended up after a long, expensive , time consuming, PITA, rebuilding my original motor. Others have had good results. It's your call though:)
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
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1) That oil pressure is normal for a stock oil system. BTW - it's in/hg not in/lbs ;)

2) Clicking could be several things:
- Valves out of clearance spec
- Check the other pulleys, especially the AC clutch and tensioning pulley.
- Aftermarket cam gears?
- The dampner is torqued to 195 ft/lbs...was that done when you replaced the underdrive one?

3) The misfire is likely ignition related...plugs, plug wires, coil, distributor (rotor and cap). Test/inspect all of the above. Check your timing as well.

Last (should be 1st though)...check for ECU codes ;)
 

jdub

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LOL...see what happens when I don't have coffee in the morning ;)

JJ is correct...it's psi on the oil pressure.
 

d_block.5

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Jun 14, 2007
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1. in/lb^2 = psion lol.

2. since it looks like i am headed for a complete engine rebuild, would it be worth it to sprnd money getting the cylinders bored and getting aftermarket pistons.

3. regarding the ignition system, i have all brand new plugs, wires and distributer, it could be a possiblity that my injectors are clogged from age?

4. what kind of prices should i propose for the machining jobs that i need?
 

jdub

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Yes, it's possible the injectors need to be cleaned. Cold be another fuel issue as well...pump, FPR, or the relay to the fuel pump.
 

d_block.5

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Jun 14, 2007
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my father has a code reader that he uses for his maxima, but he does not know if it is plug and play with my car. was wondering if the proper port to connect to issue the diagnostic port near the battery, or if it is somewhere on the interior?
 

d_block.5

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Jun 14, 2007
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wow interesting its so old school i forgot lol..

will definately check in the morning for codes if there are any, then i'll come back here with my results
 

AJ'S 88NA

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d_block.5;942097 said:
1. in/lb^2 = psion lol.

2. since it looks like i am headed for a complete engine rebuild, would it be worth it to sprnd money getting the cylinders bored and getting aftermarket pistons.

3. regarding the ignition system, i have all brand new plugs, wires and distributer, it could be a possiblity that my injectors are clogged from age?

4. what kind of prices should i propose for the machining jobs that i need?
Hard to say at this point. I would pull it and see what's what. Then decide what and how far you want to go with it. You may have to have the block bored which would mean new pistons. As far as guessing how much it will cost would be a crap shoot right now. I'd call around to some shops and try to find one that has worked on the 7M before.

Before you pull it Jdub had a few suggestions to the problems you have I'd check those things out first.

Why were you going to do a HG in the first place when you havn't done a compression test? The problems you have don't seem that bad, unless you just want to rebuild it.