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I looked in the TSRM and they are the same unit for LH and RH, but I guess one side might be having problems.

Hey guys/gals, Another question for you: lately when I signal turns at night with the lights on and with the left blinker only, I'll hear a quick buzz and the lights (including headlights) will turn off for a quick second. They immediately come back on, but it's just kinda weird. I'm...

It's very nice indeed...after I install my new lightweight flywheel and HPF bronze disk and break it in I'm running down the road to get some 101 octane and TURN IT UP! :)

See his sig...:)

I love that movie...the basic training part of it anyway.

My wife keeps talking about the new Passat. It would also have to be the TD version.

Easy killer! I didn't replace them purely because they were still looking brand-spankin' new. At least I pulled the sucker apart and inspected it. And yes, I knew it was a junkyard engine, which is why I disassembled it in the first place.

I actually bought my motor from a kid that got excited about Supras because he liked my car. He went out and bought a Supra with a blown motor (#3 cylinder intake valve broke...yikes!) and a used JDM motor. He ran out of time and money so I took the motor off his hands for $500 and sold the...

I am using the internally gated version for simplicity and packaging. It's kind of interesting just how close my peak horsepower and torque numbers are.

USED JDM: Positive experience. Installed head/main stud kits, HKS metal HG (stopper type), cleaned off the valves. Compression 170 psi across the board +/- 1 psi. Just dyno'ed at 399 rwhp @15 psi

Well, I wouldn't say they agree with me, since I pretty much got the idea from all of them...:) But I did use a sender tapped into an oil pan drain bolt for awhile and it was fairly effective, but I'm sure the GReddy thingee would be better.

I just found a local guy about 20 minutes away that has 101 unleaded...I'm gonna go get some! :)

A lot more experienced people can answer that question better than me. It mostly boils down to variables such as how much heat is soaked up by the turbine housing/downpipe, etc. versus checking it right as it exits the chamber. Again, I hope someone more experienced than me will jump in here.

I drilled out an oil pan drain plug and used that for awhile for oil. And for the EGT, after using both a downpipe mount (post turbo) and the manifold mount (pre-turbo), I highly recommend using the pre turbo. It doesn't take much to drill and tap the hole and it seems to be much more...

Nah, I live in OK. Benefits of military service...

It's a ceramic coated stock mani...how's everything turning out with that manifold? And as soon as I find some 100 or 104 octane, I plan on cranking it up!

Boosted: I couldn't get my graphs yet because his computer would take a crap every time we tried to print and I didn't bring a disk with me. That graph is of his Duramax Diesel on propane...

Grim: Thanks! I thought the blue complimented the rest of the stuff pretty good. db: I verified the hook ups with the Greddy site and the spring is a 14 pounder, so that's probably okay. Also, my BC is only about 9 years old...:)

Well, folks, I finally had a chance to run the car on the dyno after installing the SP61GT. Max power was 399.XX and torque was 398.XX on 15 psi. I tried turning on the power to my Profec B, but could only push it to 16 psi and it didn't really make more power. I also didn't hit the HI button...

I think the same thing, either timing belt or knock sensor...I had your EXACT issue and one of my knock sensors was jacked up. However, the S-AFC wasn't really showing a problem, but I also got a code 52.