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i never did, but i guess ill do it just to eliminate that. i checked them they look fine. plus my car ran good for 1 day after it wasw parked up for 2 months with no ecu, then slowly went back to sputtering. if it were coils wouldnt it be sputtering right off the jump? instead of driving good...

could it be my fuel pump not gettin enough voltage to perform under full boost? today i just learned in first and second if im on the throttle 45-50% it will hit full boost and not break up..i have no 12 volt mod on my fuel pump, any 1j's had that problem when the car was breaking up do to low...

OMG! will u get the fuk out of my thread. u seen the bay like on time asshole..plus clearly it stoped breakin up then it came back after a couple of days when i put my new ecu in..idiot. and no silvermk2 sadly its not that simple..i changed and gapped plugs a million times already

also i dont have the "12 volt mod" on the fuel pump..can that cause it? sometimes the fuel pump is much louder than normal at times when the car is idling..is that normal?

got a 2jzge clutc and fan, mine has no clearance for some reason with my radiator hose, i had to put 3 washers as spacers on the studs! and it still almost has no clearance. maybe i should get longer studs? lol i feel like im the only 1j that this happens to. i seen a lot of people with this...

ok so i got my new ecu fixed the alternator wires that broke up and drove my car. it drived amazing for 1 day, the second day it was driving good but then all of a sudden it started to back fire but the boost would fight through it. then the following day the backfiring got a lil worse..but...

well idk if its an upgrade but its def gonna flow better than ur old oil pump..at least it did for me

thanks for the help guys

oil pan doesnt need to be removed to change the rear main seal. but if your gonna do that then might as well change oil pump to a 2jz oil pump. i did that and noticed a big jump in oil pressure compared to my old stock jza70 oil pump. if you ask me anyone who has a 1j and opens the oil pan...

i think the tach wire is the black and red wire in one of the ignitor plugs, your oil pressure will not work unless you get the adaptor from driftmotion to use the stock sensor. http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-1jzoilpressuresenderadapterhose.php buy that, unscrew the stock 1jz oil...

does anyone knw if the masterpower T-70 turbo has a nipple on the housing for a boost controller to tap into it? i cant find it :/. do u need this nipple if u want to raise the boost? cause im pretty sure my turbo doesnt have it..anyone else have this problem on there masterpower?

please dont post false information. you dont need a turbo gauge cluster for the 1j tach to work. any cluster from any year mk3 will work..make sure ur getting a tach signal from your harness

wired up the alternator plugs and problem fixed .alternator charges and car finally started back up..turns out the car wasnt starting because one of the neo wires were loose on connection..thanks guys

tried a different battery and it held charge to about 11.2 volts when im on the throttle..its def the alternator because i found that 2 out of the three wires on the alternator plug broke off ---------- Post added at 04:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:31 PM ---------- thanks...

anyone?

what are the 3 wires on the alternator plug used for on a 1jz engine harness...2 of the three wires broke of..the yellow and black wire and the yellow and blue wire. what do those wires do? my car was acting weird these past couple of days, idling with 11.0 voltage then all of a sudden it shut...

i wrapped my coils with electric tape..is that the same as the shrink wrap method? lolz dirty fuel tank? doubt it could be that cause i fixed this problem before when i had stock twins..it was the spark plugs.. and now i used the same model plugs and same gap that i had on my stock twin setup...

changed the plugs same thing :(..maybe i need a better tune?

Number 1 and 2 in the picture..is it safe to leave those 2 open if u have a single turbo?