Yep bolt the timing case on and the gaskets will stick up a little I use a sharpened scraper to trim them flush with the block/timing case then a dab of RTV on each and you're ready to bolt the head down.
Ahhh well I guess if my tune isn't right after 11 hours on the dyno and 40+ Data logging runs in the past month it's time to call it a day ;)
(still not convinced 400rwhp will be enough though, 200 is actually 6650rpm)
Once it's at operating temp I shut it down let it heatsoak for a few minutes hook up the timing light ready to go refire it fast idle to stabilise the temps then let it idle long enough to set the timing. ;)
The BoV might just need to be fully opened a few times to seat correctly.
I wouldn't let it actually idle for too long at a time.
Jazz the throttle a little and keep actual idle time to a minimum, rich at idle now ISN'T going to hurt too much as it washes the bores but this also helps prevent the bores glazing up (breakin is controlled wear)
Not sure on the BoV...
Jag: I've posted many times in the past that rarely is a Mk3 in any condition to attempt a hard breakin after an extensive rebuild....
There's always so much debugging to be done, I go fairly gentle on mine and it seals up just fine so I wouldn't stress it.
Thanks it's been an ongoing project with LOTS of changes along the way!
Theoretical 200mph with the TC locked is 6700 rpm so well within my maximum engine speed these days just not sure if it'll have the HP to turn that big a gear that fast.
On the Cam timing I'd only go 2 degrees at a time and verify if there's any change.
If you make too many changes at a time you're not going to know what fixed it.
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