I give mine a liberal coat of Silver antisieze before fitting for this exact reason as they're a bitch to get out when broken!
Tool below was the best way I found to remove the broken piece.
http://ij.supramania.com/proto.jpg
The Copper seems to have more "body" to it.
When I pull an engine down done with BQ I have a hard time finding any trace of it but with Copper it's quite evident.
(the BQ I used was Blue as well)
Brake Quiet is a high temp glue that sticks the Pad backing plates to the caliper pistons so when they retract they pull the pads away from the disc to stop them squeaking making them "quiet".....
I've tried it on HG's and can't say I was overly impressed at the results so went back to the...
OP Seems to be hung up on the 3" pipe thing.....
LOOK at the area between the Turbine exit and the turbine wheel including the exit's diameter, it's MUCH less than 3".
A "system" will only flow as much as the point of it's greatest restriction.
Turbulant flow can help off the turbine...
Take a GPS, it's not 100% but it's closer than most speedos.
I have independent wheels speed sensors on all 4 wheels and use the GPS to calibrate them to be as accurate as possible, my stock speedo is KPH out at the moment due to a Diff ratio change but even when it's reading 100 kph/100 kph...
Ok giving you the benefit of the doubt and assuming you have a set of the ultra rare 3.2:1 Group A race gears in your diff it becomes
5400-4th-275/40/17-3.2:1 diff = 124.3 mph
(I wouldn't tell the 150mph story anymore it makes you look a bit dumb)
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