Sit down and make a list of EVERYTHING you want to be able to adjust then look at the Maft and a standalone tick off what each can and can't do and make the decision based on that.
Who: I wouldn't bother given that criteria.
Most times people start to think about a retorque on an old engine is when it starts to exhibit issues and by then it's too late and the retorque usually just speeds up the failure.
J: Open the Stinger software to display the map then press the "PrtScn" button on the keyboard open your MS Paint and "paste" save as a jpg file and you can post it.
Vas: If you end up replacing it make sure you use a GTE Clutch as the GE one will slip it brains out with a 10 blade fan installed. (gte's have an orange/brown hub ge's are blue)
If for any reason you unbolt the Slider Pins make sure you use a drop of loctite when you reinstall them :(
Some muppet in my car's past didn't and I had a pin unscrew letting the caliper gouge the inside of the wheel.....
Goon: What happens if you don't put a shaft in is it eats the babbit material off the bearing, with the shaft in place (at least with small block chevs) it would etch the edges but not touch the babbit surface and it would be fine to run.
In the "old days" with SBC's I just left a Cam in the block and the bearings survived the hot tanking just fine.
Never done it with a 7M though so can't say one way or the other.
It would be worth a try Goon then if it fails just replace em and we know for sure ;)
(it's only 2 bearings...
The head "could" be reclaimed by taking a skim off the top surface and caps then line boring and honing back to suit the cams after they've had the journals linished but as always it will cost.
Got ya now I read it backwards ;)
I wonder how the Stinger translates it when the Map Sensor maxes out and give the weird reading Justin mentions?
This is another reason I'd like J to pressure test so we can get an idea of what actually happens in his boost range.
I run 1.5mm...
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