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Ditto ;) (but without the boobs)

Seth: I tried everything from 2 litres to 7.5 litres ;) It just changed how hard the Turbo hit, I'm sure there is a "correct" size but I think it would only be correct in a specific RPM range so as usual it's a compromise.

I'd donate to getting your name shortened ;)

Inverted is usually done to reduce unsprung weight.

Usually easier/cheaper to swap in another low mile one if you can find one! I had one of mine hard face welded and reground to stock and it cost a fortune.

It will eventually wear out a lot of parts then fail, a good indicator is when the front seal on the input shaft leaks and drowns the clutch under hard braking ;)

NGK Platinum 7's here used daily in all conditions and haven't been changed or cleaned in 10,000+ Km's and still pull cleanly to redline using the variable dwell I described earlier in this thread.

There's a needle roller bearing inside the input shaft that rides on the snout of the mainshaft, the case hardening on the snout is thin and wears through over the years and you get the grumbles.

My post was just general advice for any EMS not this one in particular ;) If it has the feature set you need at a price you can afford and you can tune it or have it tuned and it fits my other criteria by all means go for it and keep us informed how it behaves.

Do you really want me to let you enjoy it huh? :D

Didn't see the last pic Goon :icon_razz MMAaatttlockkkk zzzzZZZzzz

Don't buy a megasquirt..... there I tried ;)

Same halfshafts it's the Stub axles into the diff that are different Evil.

What was going on with the battery volts there Justin?

yes

Not better balanced better more evenly counterweighted there's a difference.

Just stating facts J it's not rocket science. I may not have the most powerful Mk3 by a long shot but it's had a LOT of development hours go into making it one of the most drivable.

Blocks Heads Cranks All different

The return is usually at the bottom so horizontal makes sense ;)