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Clean the carbon off the crown and check for size marks then measure the bore if you have a vernier at home, top of the bore won't have any wear so it "should" be 83mm if it's stock size.

The Turbo A Cars use a different spec CT so maybe that's what he's talking about? If you swap the whole pumpkin in it's plugNplay if you swap the centre into your housing you have to use the Torsen stub axles as they're different length to the Clutch LSD ones.

Measure the piston skirt just below the Oil rings where it's not badly worn then measure the top of the bore. It would be very unlikely for Toyota to make a mistake but it's a 20 year old engine it may have been apart at some time.

Well your thread title is "First Introduction" so I assumed there was going to be a second or Version 2.0 introduction ;)

LOL sorry it's a new one to me! (I'd expect it to have no oil rings left looking like that) 7M blocks are some of the hardest cast iron I've machined over the years so that's some serious wear, if I had to guess I'd say it has the wrong size pistons in it and it's been slapping like a bitch...

Interesting never seen this before in 30+ years of playing cars.

4.10 T1 Torsen exists. Ummmm all CT's are from Japan.....

If it had a Jz it would still be running :D (ducks and covers)

Post the actual pics not just links.

Mine is all over the shop on a cold test with 1 valve that doesn't seat showing huge leakdown in that cylinder, run it for 40 seconds and it seals up nicely and evens out across the board. cliffs: Cold Comp test 99% useless

Maybe not but you might be able to rent her for that ;)

You can only flow XX through a small turbo before it chokes, only way around this is by using bypass valves. Interesting concept but very complex to get a wide powerband. I ran a 3040r with a .63 hotside way back and it had almost 0 lag but did flatline by 5500 on the 7M.

LOL Dave I knew YOU knew better ;) (I often mix up compounds when doing it in my head)

Another good post 2 ducks! I tend to go the other way on Turbo motors and drop the comp a little to give a little more overhead in case of detonation as 1 bad rattle WILL ruin your entire day. Any loss of power is more than made up for when you add boost, my motor has brilliant off boost...

Grab a new pully for it as well.

Could just be an additive in the brand of fuel you're using.

Oil Pump drive shaft that used to run the mech fuel pump and distributor way back.