Search results

Bet you didn't ring Mo at 4am ;)

:ttiwwp:

One of the very few AM body parts I'd consider putting on a Mk3 :)

Not to mention any Oil in the bolt hole will hydraulic the stud then release in time allowing movement and a change in torque on the nut...

Thanks Mo I'll drop her a line!

You do know Jet fuel IS kerosene?

You seem to have missed my point..... Unless you were there or know someone that was directly involved with some hard data to support this claim I'd file it under "bullshit". As I said earlier I've never run a stock engine hard but have broken MANY "built" parts and combinations and know...

Stuff has been said Vagina's have gotten sand in them time for everyone to take a step back and knock the personal shit off...

The ARP's I have are flanged so you don't have a lot of room, (At least they're soft enough to drill) while it "could" be done the off the shelf ones would be the better option.

Just saying it would be an interesting exercise to do them :) If they can be bought off the shelf even better! I still stand by my install method I've NEVER had a flywheel come loose ever.

Be interesting drilling the ARP's for safety wires them being 12 point heads ;)

I just clean the bolts and holes with paint thinner in a spray gun blow it out with compressed air then hit the bolts and holes with loctite primer let it set then 262 loctite torqued to factory spec, never had an issue.

King of the understatement :D

There was some vid awhile back of one of these on a go-kart ;)

It's rare on full floating pins like ours, used to happen a bit in the old days on pressed pin engines.

The idea is to hold the WG closed till you need it open then you need enough volume through the gate to control the turbine for the AR housing you are using. Looser AR can get away with a smaller WG, tighter housings need a bigger WG.

I used a GE rail

10 feet of garden hose and a golf ball spring to mind :evil2:

Very welcome!

"Not just a River in Egypt" ;)