Because not all parts warm and expand to their running clearences at the same time so driving gently until everything is warm is a good idea...
You can idle till the engine is at operating temp what about the Trans and Diff?
I did say the CT clamps were superior but in this case I predict there will be further work required so figured the Worm clamp and Flex tool will save him a bunch of pain and frustration.. ;)
Very welcome Joker!
You can use the flex driver to undo the clamp and then holding a little sideways pressure on it then use it to wiggle the clamp into the middle of the hose make it easier to remove :) (for any future work)
You either want to stop or you don't
quit making lame excuses it's like you want to "enjoy" it before it's gone so you're just going to miss it and want it back cos the last 4 were so "good"...
Take it to an alignment shop?
(really needs to be done on a machine as the same adjusters you use to do toe will affect camber so they need to juggle them all to get it right)
NA> GT3040R/.63 ar> GT3540R/1.06ar> T04z/.96ar
3040 ran out of breath around the 5000 mark but pretty well made power from idle.
3540 was INSANE and hit like a sledge hammer no matter what I tried to make it civilised
T04z was a sweetheart with a good spread of usable power but lacked...
Always done IN/OUT here then I get a coat of black heat dispersant applied over the outside for the stealth look and to help radiate any external heay away from the part.
Great results with Techline products.
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