So what?
Don't post garbage and I won't call you on it.
ALL cranks need to be "perfect" anything less why bother?
You "assume" too much, the 7M while being iron is a big wet noodle at anything over 8000 rpm/500 rwhp and no amount of stiffness in a crank is going to change that. (if...
No not saying that at all, both cranks had the same balance and identical prep work it's just that the 7M was marked up and I had the fresh 6M one there.
I was interested to see if there were any differences with just the crank swap, the Oil Pump drive shaft issue was corrected by turning it...
I was a bit stunned that it could flex that much as there's plenty of clearence to the shaft :aigo:
Had to swap out the 7M crank as it had chattered #1 and #2 crankpins enough to be visible, turned the shaft fitted my spare identical prepped 6M crank and all was well again.
2% Thoriated Tungstens are usually used for Steel so I was curious to hear Jon's reasoning behind suggesting them as I'm still learning with the Tig and am eager to improve my welding.
Yep mine had a couple of mm clearence and still managed to brush the shaft and chatter the bearings, quick cut in the Lathe and all was well.
Big long wet noodle engines move around a LOT more than you'd expect (part of why I'm not keen on solid engine mounts)
Or for people that drive their cars hard enough to uncover the pickup under high G loads when it's at the stock fill level due to the totally useless pan/baffle design used in the 7M.... :nono:
Guess that makes me inept in some way, but hey I haven't lost an engine since I've been doing it.
What part of 1 thou clearence aren't you getting?
Your mythical magical fishing line needs to be 1/2 a thou thick...... :nono:
(a human hair is 2 thou)
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