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Good big cheap turbo :) Personally I'd go with something big enough to let it breathe and use an SP QuickSpool to get it back to minimal lag. This is why my 3540r made more power on the top end compared to the T04z, I ran a 1.06 on the 35 and a .96 on the 04, the tighter AR really hurts...

4 piston leading calipers negate the need to chamfer ;)

As I said apples to apples..... I made more power with my 3540r than I did with my T04z but you just can't compare the 2.

Makes more sense than a lot of the other CF crap available for our cars ;)

This thread is quickly heading towards the Wall Of Shame...:nono: "CletusMania" at it's worst guys.

I'd like to hear how the 40 year old tech coped with the radiation out that far and often wonder why none of the astronauts ever showed any signs of exposure. On this like religion I'm agnostic, show me some actual proof and I'll believe.

I'd like to see an apples to apples comparison of a billet V's non billet turbo same AR same engine same dyno.

Heavier wire would be better but that short run shouldn't make a lot of difference Andy.

^ Something else going on in that engine NO Gasket would have survived.

A bud that worked on a top fuel team suggested it many years ago and while it's a bit expensive it's hands down the best RTV I've tried (have used a bunch of brands including Toyota) It's never failed me. As I mentioned earlier just about all the major motorcycle brands have a version of it...

so? not rocket science adapting one to fit.

You have to run some sort of seat or the Springs will destroy the head surface.

enough

Most of the Japanese MotorCycle dealers stock it under their own brand ie: Suzibond, YamaBond, HondaBond and so on.

Codes?