Search results

MoTeC DBW FTW ;) (can be as eccentric as you chose)

A good crimp with hot glue and heatshrink would be better ;)

I don't think he's replacing bearings it's just a shortblock swap?

Nuh uh ;) The Mixer door in the HVAC controls the Hot/Cold inside the car, there's always some hot coolant in the core as the Valve doesn't seal 100%. Ziptie is a good way to test though. If it's a faulty valve/vsv he'll get Heat back if he get's heat for 30>40 seconds it's the CC Amp...

That Crank would make a great Mailbox post as it is ;) (lets see the vandals break that off)

Heater Valve on the firewall Heater valve VSV Climate control amplifier Climate control in the dash

Are you talking about these>> If so you should be ashamed and embarrased ;)

My MoTeC guy says the same thing the AFM is the more accurate system :) (I'm lazy and always go MAP based)

Had this happen twice, once in an Ex's old Mazda and once in the Supra....:nono:

Personally I'd save the time and effort and sell it to someone that doesn't know any better..

Mine NEVER came loose even playing on dirt roads or pulling .9+G :D

As long as the battery is charged up and the plugs are out it should be fine for a minute or two at a time, by then it should pressurise the whole system and you'll see it on the gauge

Pull the Injector fuse and crank it with no plugs till you see Oil pressure on the gauge. (don't crank longer than a few minutes at a time though)

I won't post it all here but if you're interested the story starts here and concludes here! Needless to say without the Cage I wouldn't be here today!

Here I tip if I get good service NOT because it's expected ;)

Fine at 550rwhp ;)

Bit of a hint... it won't..

Some pics would be nice along the way! There's another 77 Celica/7mgte here already!

I used to use a Blue insulated connector and just trimmed the insulation from the bottom side and it worked perfectly. The genuine connector has that big rubber cover over the top.

LOL lucky I didn't go with the 20B-T I was thinking about ;)