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It would be evident from which end of the engine is leaking..... Rear mains don't leak at the front of the car..:nono:

Jack>RR>Spare>RR>drop>Jack>RF>RR>drop. ;)

It's based on volume, ie: WG hose comes off Turbo runs away provides xx flow engine shuts down before exploding and spitting the crank and rods all over the road. Even with the MoTeC I run a form of boost cut to save engines.

So you didn't swap the wheels around like I suggested?

Heading out to the shed now, try swapping the fronts and rears and let me know if the vibration is still there, I'll stick my head in at lunchtime. Also sight along the driveshaft and make sure the Uni's are in line.

Check that the Vacc lines are connected before you replace anything ;)

Was about to ask if your eyes were painted on ;)

bimbo :p

Try the fronts on the rear and see if the vibration follows them.

Nah I mean for you to check for rotational play so maybe pull the e-brake on and see if you can move an axle? Looking for CV wear. Have you tried a different pair of rear wheels?

Not gay if it saves an engine....

Car in gear or in park see if you can rotate a wheel with it jacked up at ride height.

Did you try front/back, side/side, diagonal/diagonal?

I had a stuffed spherical bush in mine that was fine if I jacked it up by the body and the suspension drooped but was wiggly if at ride height.

Jack it up under the rear hub and try to wiggle the rear wheel in all directions.

What's behind the Purple theme 4U?

OS Giken Twin with Solid unsprung Ceramic discs and double diaphram ;)

That's where priming on the starter with the plugs out comes into play ;)

"Lapping" Is a finishing operation and should only be used AFTER the surfaces have been machined flat/true.

I've ran my car with the throttle set up 1:1 and it's almost undriveable, very fussy and jerky, I run it 0>50 @ half so 10% at the pedal = 5% at the TB then linear from 50%>100%. Make it all behave so much nicer in day to day traffic.