Coolant into the oil will trash a bearing fairly quickly which will lead to rod knock which in turn leads to throwing a rod out through the side of the block.
Your "mechanic" is wrong, our cars only have one head, it's in his best interests for you to do as much damage as possible as he gets...
This is all interesting info, I'd planned on PWMing mine and giving it a slope as it opens/closes as looking at it an abrupt open/close would create a LOT of turbulance and shaft speed change.
I'm also running an E-Map sensor so might end up using that for the trans tables but at this point...
One of my first jobs in industry was at a Brake and Clutch manufacturer/repairer, might be of interest to some that you NEVER machine rotors to 0 runout, usually 2 thou is acceptable as it's enough to knock the pads off the rotor in use and stops squeaks/drag/squeal.
The square section o-ring...
I won't let my engines come on boost at all until the retorque is done, all you need is 4>5 heat cycles this can be done without even driving the car as you get it together after the first startup.
Operating temp>cold = 1 cycle.
I've found typically the 7m loses tension on the middle 6 studs.
Check for a crimped hardline between the pump and the rail (blocked filter maybe)
If it's a genuine Aeromotive they're pretty good but the knockoff's have junk diaphrams.
"Should" be 1:1 + base.
With these cars it's NEVER a good sign when they start vomiting coolant, I'd put a small plastic bottle on the overflow hose for a couple of days to see if it's an internal leak or if it's puking it out while you drive.
It "Should" blow some coolant into the recovery tank when the engine gets...
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