We picked up power on the dyno in the past changing from a spiral pipe between the aircleaner and turbo to a smooth bore one, you can still do it with a Mig just takes a little practice fiddling with settings.
You want to shoot for about 70% penetration on your welds as a smooth surface inside is much more important than strength in this case.
(no load on an intake or ic pipe so 70% is easily strong enough)
x2 on ditching the stock cooler circuit in the Rad, I WOULDN'T put it in front of the IC though as it will affect performance/tune through elevated IAT's, you want the IC to get first bite at the Cool/fresh air.
On the e-fans, what I found with the Chev was I had to run them at low speed from 85c onwards then ramp their speeds up as the temp went up.
If I didn't do this the temp would run away and overheat (saw 118c in testeing after a few hot restarts) if I did the above it would happily sit on 88c...
Good idea to get a Landcruiser deep pan and screen for it, the cooler rule for the Trans is the bigger the better, don't stress too much on the fitting size as the Cooler circuit is only a bypass so any restriction you get from the step down/up fittings won't affect the Trans operation.
Last factory gasket I bought was coated in sealer so just bolted straight on once the surfaces were cleaned spotlessly with paint thinner, no leaks ever.
you write off your car and are surrounded by many supportive concerned friends that encourage you you stay on as part of the community even though you have no intention of buying another Supra ever!
Thanks guys! :D
Depending on what combination you use to get the 200, if you're using low gears and lots of RPM you can easily bump critical, just NOT something I'd chance.
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