damn, i was like: not another HD thread! but that looks damn good! i like how much space you left between the hardpipe and the water outlet from the motor and from the radiator. whether or not that was intentional isnt important, the fact is that it's there.
it allows for the motor to flex...
pull the spark plugs and see if they're wet from fuel. check the 7.5A IGN fuse in the driver's side kick panel, as well as the EFI fuse in engine bay fuse box. jump B+ and FP in the diagnostic block and listen if you hear your fuel pump turn on (listen by the gas filler neck)
-shaeff
this data is from the RC engineering website. it includes formulas for calculating injector sizes for your application, as well as how to convert lbs/hr to cc/min and so forth.
http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm
-shaeff
here ya go!
http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm
by the way, i got this from typing: how do you convert cc to lb/hr?
into google, and that was the first site that popped up. :)
-shaeff
ECU's rarely ever go bad. i've only EVER heard of one. it's not your ECU doing it. yes, thevork has the right idea. the TPS can cause all kinds of idling problems, as well as stalling problems etc... the list goes on. fix it per the tsrm in the link both i and thevork gave you, and you'll be...
i dont think that i'm leaning it out long enough to actually make the white, as i'm running pig rich at idle, but leaning out when i rev it, then it cuts out and i cant rev anymore. (read: the plugs are black from running rich) but it only 'leans out' for a split second until the rpm drops...
PB blaster works wonders. get some of it. a bit of heat wouldnt hurt either. use a closed end wrench on it. if it strips get some nut/bolt extractors from craftsman. they're awesome. the more you loosen, the more it tightens. if you dont wanna do that break out a good pair of vice grips. ;)...
gently tap it with a hammer. dont pry it off, you could mar the mating surface and cause leaks= future headaches. tap around the edges with 'normal' size hammer.
-shaeff
ok, so i just got home from work, and pulled apart my AFPR, and the diaphram is in perfect condition. so now we've narrowed it down to what? the fuel pump is the only thing left that could cause a drop in fuel pressure.
when i gently blip the throttle, the fuel pressure bumps up about 2psi...
hmmm. i'd be pissed if the brand new FPR's diaphram is ripped! but happy at the same time becaue it would solve my problem. i dont have any supra buddys close to me, unforutnately. :( it's just me. infact, the only person/ supra enthusiast i've talked to/met is "TONY!". i'll give that diaphram a...
hell yeah. i know exactly what you mean!
on a side note... here's another question:
on my aeromotive AFPR, the vacuum nipple is NOT on the same side of the AFPR as the return side of the fuel rail. (read: the nipple is facing toward my drivers side fender) is this normal? the diagram i...
DAMMIT. haha. i knew that. oh well. sorry bout that man. i knew you drove an auto, i just totally brain farted :( heh, flexplate, auto. yeah, i'm smart.
good info Grim.
-shaeff
why didnt you just pop start it? i'm a pretty small dude, (about 130lbs, 5'9") and i can get my supra rolling enough to pop start it by myself. (asuuming i'm not pushing uphill)
a lot of people dont pop start a car correctly, if you ask me. too many people just let the clutch out and keep it...
seriously. i just called the only junkyard around me that has an mkiii. it's a white '89 N/A. the body was nearly perfect, and it's what i've been taking parts from for over a year now. the moldings were awesome, and after my fuel pump relay, i was going to pull them off along with the side...
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