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here ya go, look where the arrow points in the pic, there's a little plunger under there. push it up, and zip tie/wire it there. it'll let coolant pass through the valve into your heater core. :) it's located on the passenger side of the firewall. you can follow the heater pipes from the back of...

heater valve: the best way to check, in my opinion, is to push the plunger all the way up into the valve, then use a coat hanger to wire it there, or a zip tie. if you get your heat back, then you've found the problem. ;) i completely removed mine... -shaeff

yes, of course. the exterior looks like crap right now. i've got holes in the front fenders, the mudflaps are clinging on for dear life, and i have rust holes in my doors. the molding is missing in two spots, and broken in another, the paint is ridiculously faded from black to a strange grayish...

why dont you try cleaning the contacts in the window motor switch, or replacing the switch before you go through the trouble of replacing an entire door? -shaeff

well, get the timing set correctly first. that could very well be your problem. also, have you any way to check your fuel pressure? -shaeff

well, i've decided to change my plans up a bit. origionally, i was going to make the bodywork come last on the car, as it's in pretty rough shape, and i'm powerhungry. but, i already have new front fenders, bumper cover, lip, mudflaps, doors, and all excellent condition moldings. if i can get my...

1 & 4 are the same colors - (yellow and white/blue) 2 & 5 are the same - (black and white/red) 3 & 6 are the same - (white and red) the pairs can be switched, like between 1 and 4, 2 and 5, and 3 and 6. :) -shaeff

read here. learn what you're doing, and how it works, BEFORE you do it;) after you've read it in it's entirety, read it again. :) http://rob.carlile.home.mchsi.com/lexus/lexus1.htm -shaeff

yeah, i gotcha. i didnt catch where you were talking about airflow based fuel injection. ;) just a misunderstanding, i suppose! thanks all, for clearing it up! -shaeff

LMAO. that's too funny! i wonder if the crowd throws up the shocker when their team scores! that'd be totally badass! haha. -shaeff

heh, JDM 7M's are identical in horsepower and torque to the USDM models, regardless of whether or not you use the stock ECU to your car, or the JDM ecu. it's all the same. anything else you've heard is just plain wrong, or from someone who's obsessed with JdM tYtEneSs, yo. your JDM motor is...

welcome! :) -shaeff

thread moved to proper section... -shaeff

before i have to delete MORE posts in this thread, READ it before you post about spelling. smartass comments will be deleted, just like the last one i deleted. -shaeff

alright, then! that's a bit more clear. thanks! :) -shaeff

because many of us know that he's dyslexic.;) it was a mistake, i know, regardless, end of topic. just stop. -shaeff

i leave mine at 10* BTDC. right where the book says to. -shaeff

if the stock headgasket is torqued to 72ft lbs, and in good condition when done, it can support 400hp easy, so long as you keep detonation in check. tuning is KEY. ;) -shaeff

heh, i still must be either A) dumb (quite possibly, haha:)) or B) missing something. you stated: from what i understand, 10psi on the ct, is NOT the same as 10psi on a different turbo (read: larger). now, in all honesty, i'm not that intelligent when it comes to turbos, so please bare...

correct. -shaeff