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They don't seem to be overly dusty but they're not dustless not by a long shot, not noisy at all they're heavily chamfered so don't dig the leading edges in and if you run brake quiet or the sticky pads they shouldn't rub/squeak. Dunno Andy, a lot will depend on the F/R bias, are the STI rotors...

He doesn't have a lot of finesse ;) I had the AP Racing callipers on my Mk3 and never went though a set of pads, it had over 75k KM's on them and still servicable.

There are a bunch of tards here that 12>18 months ago were asking "what is a BHG" and are now "experts" giving their sage advice to anyone that will listen.... Like everything you need to do some research into who is telling you what instead of blindly following thier lead.

It's a 2 tonne SC400 with a blower, he ran the Mk4 callipers with Toyota pads on Cryo'd 4000 DBA rotors and it destroyed them in a very short time, the Yellows on Cryo'd 5000's would be maybe 1/4 the wear in about the same time, I have enough confidence in this combination that it's on my new...

We've had this discussion here ;) I'd like to do some tests with 2x WB02's one post and one pre cat just out of curiosity!

20 under "might" be under the hardness of the stock Toyota Induction hardening, cold/dry starts the crank is soft enough to pick up some bearing material, do this a couple of times and you get enough material transfer/galling to flatten a tang and the bearing is toast. When you pull it down...

Ok NOT a good sign sadly :( Run the engine and pull 1 injector clip at a time then replace it and move to the next, post back here what happens noise wise.

Was answered in post #17...

Pull the Cam covers and check the valve clearences with feeler gauges when each cam lobe has it's back to the bucket, for it to be this noisy it should be apparent. Lighter oil could be a factor but check the basics first (lighter oil will displace easier so it "might" be rod knock but I'd...

Ahhh ok didn't see that posted in here! ;) (that or I'm going blind)

Personally I wouldn't do the partner thing if there was any way around it.... By all means take people on as employees if needed/justified. If you can't do it on your own start smaller and work it up over a few years.

Why didn't you mod the subframe for axle clearence while it was out?

Factory Porsche drilled rotors crack and I doubt yours are better quality... :nono: Might come down to time/miles used and driving style. It's not a case of "if" they will crack it's more "when" and personally as I said earlier I wouldn't use them on a road car ever.

The Yellows improved the Soarer from almost undrivable for me to a nice pedal,Rotor wear looks to be acceptable with Cryo'd DBA 5000/4000's, it has Mk4 Supra TT brakes on it, Used Motul last time and am trying some Penrite SIN 600 as it's much cheaper and tests just as good, another one is the...

Closer = quicker heat up and response times but shorter sensor life, inverse is also true. I ran mine on a mk3 down on the horizontal section beside the Trans.

I wouldn't run cross drilled rotors on a road car they will crack... Using EBC yellows on a bud's 400 soarer, he's heavy on brakes and they're giving good life with far better "feel" than the Toyota pads as they're not as grabby, stainless lines and a master cylinder brace help improve pedal...

Sounds like loose valve clearence, try holding it around 2500 and see if the sound changes.

A bud here has a 400, I'm not surprised at -800 after seeing how Toyota made EVERYTHING in the car from Depleted Uranium :D Well done <golf clap>

How old now? ;)