Search results

It's where the Turds we flush here end up.. As for the OP it's all about "Content" it's a case of post it and they will come, Post some pics/info about your Mk4 and any plans you have for it and people will ask questions chat and start telling you about their cars.

Keep them to yourself please!

It's all cool guys!

More Mass is always a good thing from a fade perspective, not so much for acceleration/deceleration though ;) That has to be the newest/cleanest Saw blade I've ever seen! :aigo:

AC Amplifier on the dash bar above the glove box.

6M 7M Lightened 7M

It was smoother over 7000, never saw any difference in bearing wear. It'll be expensive to reclaim the damaged crank, much cheaper to source another if possible.

Full counterweight 7M cranks are blank no markings...

I've been doing this longer than a big % of the guys here have been alive and I still bleed on a semi regular basis ;) Occupational hazard! Nice work so far should be a nice reliable toy when it's done, any reason for such small injectors?

Never used FelPro's in a 7M but have built many SBC/BBC's using them and always had good results. Someone is bound to jump in with some first hand experience though.

"Bird Has Gone" ;)

No link sorry, I used to buy them from my Crank shop, you can get a VRS set on it's own.

They only list MLS for the 7M.

Good to hear :) MDS kits use "Stone" gaskets and Viton rubber parts if you can find one, "Stone" is an OEM supplier.

Dunno on the bolts I've always used Studs in my engines, not common to strip a thread at all the Cast Iron is some of the hardest I've ever machined in an engine block, as I said earlier more prone to cracks in the Earlies, Air is fine as long as everything else is sealed up and there's no...

You can use a Tap covered in Grease to chase the holes in the car if that helps? (grease will catch any chips and crap then you wipe it and reapply between holes)

The Early blocks are prone to cracking from the Bolt holes to the steam holes next to them, extra thread engagement is a good thing, that 10mm of steel in the nut is probably equal to the entire length of cast iron strength wise! Are you pulling the head to do this job?

The stock head bolts miss the last 1/4 of the threads in the block and over years they fill with crud and corrosion, the ARP's are longer and if you don't chase the holes you can't screw them all the way in by hand, I would never retro fit stud in a running engine it's something I leave to do on...

Studs require the threads in the block to be chased to clear the crap out of them and due to the way they work will give a better chance of even torque across the head.

If you're not going to try what I suggest I can't help you... :nono: