Soak it with PB Blaster for a day or so as well, when you install the new one use some Nickle Antiseize on it's threads.
It's caused by "Galvanic Corrosion" your fitting and the head form a battery when "wet" and bond to each other.
You tap it into the hole lightly and turn with a wrench ;)
The advantage it has over a Helical extractor like an "easy-out" is it doesn't expand the broken part and wedge it tighter into the hole destroying the threads when you eventually get it out.
I bought that tool to do the exact job...
I ran an 88c in my 7M, at cruise it would hover on 88, under boost it would max out at 91c, around town in Summer with the AC on it was about in the Middle, one thing I found using E-Fans with the Turbo LS Chev was you need to get them in a little early to "cath" a rise or it'll run away.
On...
Bzzzzz wrong...
You're confusing terms here, a labyrinth "seal" is just that it's a Maze with High and Low channels that the Oil can't find a path through and returns to the Pan, the Piston Ring Seal on the Turbine is a Mechanical seal so totally different.
You could sharpen up the Synchro teeth with a dremel, that'll help initial engagement, way back when I had my Z I used a steel case Toyota Trans and removed the tip of every second tooth to help with missed shifts under power.
Ugly but effective, after all I'm just a hack in a shed ;)
The Hardening only goes so deep Steve, once through it's junk, being a constant mesh Trans all that's going to "happen" with worn teeth is it'll be noisy.
The Synchro's in the Trans are the limiting factor for shift speed.
The More Pucks the "gentler" the initial engagement/bit will be but a Puck clutch is never going to be "smooth" like a full face disc with Marcel springs no matter what Hub it uses.
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