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^ i think that dr.jonez had a problem like that a long time ago... -shaeff

you're a brave man! -shaeff

^ you might want to up the boost a little for that one, eric! and yeah, they bolt to the intake manifold, near the firewall. -shaeff

yes, they're the same. -shaeff

i would rock that for the rest of my life! -shaeff

^ haha. yeah, i have kindof long arms. :) it's my dad's fault! i swear! -shaeff

my car was gutted for 4 months once. from the driver's seat back was bare metal. then i bought a really nice condition gray cloth interior, and put it in. my car looks like crap from the outside, but everyone says: "wow, it's NICE in here!" :) gutting=FTL -shaeff

have any movie theaters near you? i used to work at a movie theater, and we regularly used o-scopes to work on our projectors. -shaeff

i have the tip in problem too. i'm on 4.40. i just downloaded v 4.65, so i'll install that soon, and see if that helps the problem. i hear that it will. i have a wideband on the way, so i haven't adjusted anything yet. i'm experimenting a little with the boost control function now though...

if your wiring checked out ok, then chances are one or both of your knock sensors are toasted. get them checked out by someone with an o-scope as steve mentioned above. he gave some good info. :) -shaeff

only ground one side, lest you create ground loops. ground loops are bad. -shaeff

writeup to change the fuel filter. stick with me, i'm about to go to bed, and it's 6:10am. without removing the tank: grow monkey arms, and reach around up above the differential and do it. basically the same as below, but with the tank in place. it's a bitch this way, but can be done (and...

if i remember right, the update for the maftpro gets rid of that just-off-idle stumble. -shaeff

check the foglight grounds, and if they're good, check for voltage at the connectors, if there's voltage, then get new bulbs. -shaeff

speed density gets rid of the AFM altogether. it's the way to go in my opinion. i'm running the MAFTpro in speed/density, and my car has never run so well. (going from the lex/550 to maftpro) you'll never have AFM trouble again with speed/density. (and a more free flowing intake) -shaeff

unless you removed the black box (sensor) then you destroyed it with the carb spray. :( any chemicals on it will destroy it in short order. test it per the specs in the TSRM. -shaeff

as indicated, the stock BPV is designed to fluctuate between open and closed at idle. unless you want stumbling problems, vaccuum leaks, and a world of chasing your tail headaches, don't do it. by the way, a quick search would have yeilded you this same answer. it's in the reference section...

on new hardware, it is necessary to re-torque because even ARP studs will stretch to a point. after they've been heat cycled and re-torqued, they're not supposed to have to be re-torqued ever again, but why chance it? it took me a beer and an hour and a half to re-torque... (while carrying...

heh, yeah. i usually don't voice my opinions when they're like the one above. i think them to myself, and get a devilish smile on my face. ;) but seriously, i wouldn't hesitate to do that... -shaeff

BINGO! -shaeff