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i don't care if you got a motor that was just bought from the toyota factory- you'd still need to get it lapped... (head and block) -shaeff

...or you could read his post and find out that he has a code 31, which of course means the following: 31 Air Flow Meter Signal Diagnosis (7M-GE) Open circuit in VC signal or short circuit between VS and E2 when idle contacts are closed. (7M-GTE) Open or short circuit in air flow...

more often than i care to admit... :) -shaeff

omgwtfbbq? how did i miss this thread!? damn night job! :nono: anyway, i'm super-late, but that looks sick! -shaeff

if the theft deterrant computer is removed, it can't arm because there's no alarm in the car anymore... with the blue/orange wire grounded and the theft deterrant ecu removed, you should be fine. -shaeff

if it's not a TECH question, then don't post in the TECH section. ;) thread moved. -shaeff

when my 7.5A IGN fuse blew, the dash still lit up, but the CEL did not... at least that's how i remember it. i'm going to pull it out tomorrow and see if i remember that right. :) -shaeff

BINGO! i mean to tell you everytime i see your posts, but i always forget. haha. now i finally remembered! fix them! believe it or not, but the slots in them help cool the brakes. when they're backwards they don't help cool very well... ;) -shaeff

start with checking the codes! -shaeff

first thing to check should be the 7.5A IGN fuse in the driver's side kick panel. if it's blown, start looking for shorted out wires. -shaeff

test the ground with a multimeter or test light. here's a thread on it- http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1515#post1515 though, it sounds like you've done everything. grounding the blue wire with the orange tracer is only to make your starter work. without the theft...

fix your rims. they're bothering me. :) -shaeff

cheap, fast, reliable. pick two. -shaeff

so you're saying that Wendigo is the weak link in his situation? he turned the key, and he automatically caused the HG to blow, and the exhaust valve to snap? doubtful. there are so many variables to this equasion that it's ridiculous. i mean, seriously. think about it. someone promises you a...

boost has little to do with what engine RPM is. boost has to do with how much load is on the engine. keep that in mind. you could be at 2000 rpm, and go up a hill, and guess what? yep, your turbo is going to spool and there's nothing you can do about it. -shaeff

RSX= the suck. [/thread] (zip up your suit) -shaeff

dammit! not what i wanted to hear! i kindof figured that's how it'd be though... the thing is, i think i know a decent amount about the "new stuff" (haha) and the "old stuff"- i've worked on, and owned/tuned cars with carbeurators before. it's pretty simple to say the least. but here's the...

for those who keep saying stuff about changing your oil every 1500-2000 miles, as well as "i need 20/50 because it's hot here" need to search for some posts about oil made by jetjock. and remember. -shaeff

^ you're going/went to UTI right? i've been seriously considering going there... (i want to go back to school in september) it's either that or wyotech, but i think i like the sound of UTI better. any input? -shaeff

as stated several times, slotted is good, drilled is good if they're CAST that way. drilling holes in rotors is bad... -shaeff