I ran an AVCR then used my MoTeC for boost control, the AVCR was good but a PITA to set up and adjust...
I think I'd go for something more modern like a TurboSmart unit, I'm sure some of the guys will jump in with suggestions.
(No Turbo for me now I'm Blown)
Won't work the same, it'll get "creep" the EBC keeps the line from the turbo to the WG closed until it's time to work ;)
It's well worth spending a few $ as most will give you the option of a nice low boost setting for wet days!
Way back I was out at 5am doing a logging run, car came on...
Spun through 3 lanes of peak hour traffic centre punched the rail didn't hit anyone and walked away without a scratch :)
I was sitting behind a Cop at the time and thought someone had PITed me ...
When the arm broke it did the forklift rear steer thing I turned into it which made things...
Run it as a GE on the 7M GTE Wiring, it'll drive like a Turbo car that never comes on boost ;)
Main thing is to get it done and reliable, fast can come later when you can afford it!
Had mine mounted in 2 different places, 1 was on the Left side chassis rail under the Intake, 2 was behind the radiator in front of the sway bar when I went V8.
After I crashed the Supra I lost my mind for a min and sold a LOT of shit I should have kept...
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Thermal expasion if we were talking Pistons, Rings Valves Yes but we're talking about the Need for added bearing clearences for high output engine, and this has NOTHING at all to do with Thermal expansion as if it's getting hot oil temp to the point the crank is growing you have a failure about...
Just figured it huh....
1UZ into a Mk3 with EVERYTHING working isn't an easy swap, 2J-GE on 7M eletronics is simple by comparison, as for 1UZ Bellhousing on a 7M Trans we tried that no way known was it going to work as the 7M Torque convertor needed for the 26 spline input shaft on the 7M...
Best bang for the $ and easiest upgrade path down the track when funds permit is the 2J-GE+7M electronics, no matter what people would have you belive the 1UZ is neither...
(just got done helping a Bud 1UZ swap a Cressida so I have an idea of the hurdles involved)
Not a chance in hell..
I ran one way back, choked badly above 5000 rpm.
Also T3/T4 makes NO difference as the Nozzle is still the same size in both just the flange is different.
Might be blowing the valve off it's seat, be better to run a lighter spring and an EBC so you put boost into the back of the diaphram to help hold it closed.
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