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Just bypass it and leave car in neutral.

Not for progress pics or unfinished pics. For nice quality looking engine bays.

i have that bb gun. Except mine is hot pink lol.

Plus its ugly. shineautoproject.com

Bo is black with orange stripe. There wire colors. Bo is power. The rest is grounds controlled by the Ecu. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=47

L-r is blue with red stripe. L-y blue with yellow strip. Y is yellow.

With a bhg I wouldn't pay more than like 800 tops. More like 500.

Need to use more arm strength. 1/ 2in breaker bar and. 4ft cheater pipe should be more than enough.

Yes the flywheel is different as well.

Tein flex spring rates are pretty weak for a road track. 12/6 more for quality street setup

Lefty loosey righty tighty.

Ya all of which your explaining is generally normal. Toyota fipg. They use the orange on the manual trans and diffs. Tho the black will work too. Dm or toyota stocks the orange.

Man up or get someone else to help you. That bolt is tightened to 198ft lbs. which after the years feels like a lot. Ive used breaker bars, impacts, and the starter. All has worked perfect everytime.

Get a new head. Who knows how far the crack goes and that spot is a pain.

Id go with the 1jz.

i took the rubber boot off a stock harness and put it in. Doesnt completely seal it up tho you could make it seal up but its looks pretty good.

aem dryflow filters are about 50-60$ as well.

Nice build so far.

Ya. I like it that way better. I don't like the idea of the harness running over like that plus it looks better. And no cutting. Next year ill be working on bare min in the engine bay without cutting corners.

Just gotta use your brain. Unplug everything move it. Extend the wires and route it a way you won't see it.