Id give you help but i had the same problems as you. You just need to measure voltage and such as every point you plan on cutting before you cut it so you know what youre doing. If you make a mistake its not a huge deal just resolder and heatshrink the wiring, id stay away from twisting+...
well i cant see any from the pic but il take your word for it. If the hose has a smal crack on the inside layer the water can just seap right into the threading and escape out the end, doesnt seem too impossible.
You should really get an mr2t if youre looking to dominate the turns. The mr2 NA is good for cornering but not mountain/uphills, just too slow. I really wish i hadnt gotten into an accident in my mr2, that car made me smile around every turn. I wasnt even that experienced with driving it and...
-Ive been in an accident, cant afford turbo insurance
-Im only 17, why have more power if i know im going to be tempted to use it
-NA has decent torque for puttin me around town
-still looks cool
-Cant afford to maintain a turbo, and i know if i had one i would be wasteing all my money...
Does it go to 3/4 and take a while for it to move down from there? or does it start dropping after you start driving a little bit? Reason i ask is the needle on the gauge might need repositioning or the potentiometer in the gas tank might not be contacting when fuel is full, depending on which...
links to pics? Cant view them without logging in on there
BTW i did this a while ago, still isnt perfect but it works a LOT better now. Does a full sweep, can even see changes with slight slopes
This isnt much help, but if youre talking about the very visible angle on both edges, i highly doubt you could wear an edge like that. Those things are made of hardened steel i dont think wear like that would be realistic, but this is just a guess since your thread needs a bump anyways;)
take it to a qualified shop and ask them to pressure test the cooling system. This is where they put a little pump on the radiator and pressurise the cooling system. They put it up to about 17 psi i think and it is supposed to hold there without losing any pressure. If it is, you have a leak...
thats definately #87245E, but that red inline valve is not stock. It looks like someone chopped the coolant line and put that valve in between for reasons i dont know. You cannot buy only that little section youl have to buy the hose on both sides of the red thing because its supposed to be 1 piece.
Can you be more specific? There are two small water lines that run INTO the firewall for the heater core, but it sound slike youre talking about the lower radiator hose, does it connect to the radiator and then to the engine? I dont know what you mean by coolant flush cap.
No better way to learn something than messing up and having to go through hell to fix it. You know youl never make that mistake ever again, so if anything it was a good experience. I learn a lot of things this way
that actually doesnt need to connect to anything i dont think. Mine just has a little piece of val line and is attatched to a litle air filter, i think its just to dampen the throttle if you let it snap back, someone correct me if im wrong
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