Search results

Ya. So it's the rear one. It will have a blue wire coming out of the relay. Clip the wire and use the relay side of the wire and wire that to the ac clutch wire. Been a while since I worked on a 7m iirc there's a connector at the end of that wire. Could solder on the connector from the 7m...

Ya like under it. Iirc the relay mount is part of the fuse box mount.

You have to take the blue wire from the relay and wire it to the clutch wire. The plug thats on the engine harness will not do it. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=143 The relay is under the fuse box in the engine bay.

You just take the bottom bolt off and slide the caliper up and then inwards. You dont need to take anything off on the top.

Sounds like bhg.

Toast. Get a new one.

Have to go to an electronics store. Usually a small mom and pop store.

Rebuild on a 2j block shouldn't be more than about 1k. Use the 1jz head. Port and polish and put 272 cams and shimless buckets and get a good tune. Can rev high and make lots of power. Or buy a Unopened 2jzgte and swap it in and get 600 hp

Do you have any electrical experience? You have to add a few wires from the 7m harness and then you have to change the body plugs to fit your car. If want it ran like stock the harness would need to be extended.

Yes. It's from fc.

Horrible luck with buying used parts? Buy used 2jz block and rebuild it. Will still be far far less than a custom striker kit.

260 is cheaper than a paint job.

The first pic has the oring installed. The second pic has a oring over the oring already on there.

Could be getting noise if the shielding is bad. I'd do a knock sensor rewire.

Only 1 cap was leaking?

How did you wire it up?

No. When you pull it out there is a grove that the o ring goes on and seals in side the hole of head.

Volt meter or test light on e1. Or try grounding te1 to the battery or body ground.

There shouldn't be any problem.

20ft would be more than enough.