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If your using a ct the wastegate is set at 7 psi. What you are seeing is normal. Even more so when upgraded. My 57trim on my 7m only went to 6psi.

Usually the 1jz has a noise filter on the igniter. Yes it goes to ground. Second I don't get what your saying.

The Ecu does not control boost. The wastegate does.

Can use an auto Ecu on a manual but cannot use a manual Ecu for an auto.

If the starter is completely dead it will not make any sounds. Take a wire with 12v from the battery and give the plug on the starter 12v. Takes 5 min to do and will tell you whether or not your starter is good. Without testing anything yourself your not going to get a 100% positive answer...

It's actually 2.5 bar. As it had to go in vacuum as well but ya 14psi is the one bar for boost cut.

Don't have to hack up the harness but its better to run new wires. There are a lot of people running hids. Myself included.

Can fit what ever you like with the right mods. First off your better off starting with getting a full hid setup and get some h4 housings and pulling them apart. Theretrofitsource.com sells hids that will fit good into h4 housings and then you just add the halo rings while your in there.

Need a piggy back like a afc or maft pro or switch to a standalone ems.

All you need is a feeler gauge. Can get that at any place they sells auto tools. The rest is hand tools and a torque wrench.

There is a couple t3 manifolds out there. Better off with a t4 and a properly sized turbine housing. Or a quick spool valve. Divided spools faster as well.

Key doesn't need to be on for that. When you do that with a power probe(which not everyone has) just need to check wether or not the starter actually works. If it does and still doesn't crank you have a wiring issue.

Seeing as you can't even see it might as well just leave it.

If the car doesnt crank over its starter or wiring issue. Has nothing to do with crank sensor or tccs.

Lol

Lol ya. We were in a huge lifted truck tho getting all the parts for my other car.

Hard to tell from the pic but the bonded section looks like its coming out at the bottom.

Iirc you can use the auto one but the clutch pedal is going to be close to the brake. Better off just getting manual brake pedal.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=BE&P=40 Its all in the manual.

Forgot about the other line at the back of the head. Still tho with 7m head gasket issues and the usuall 5-6 always blown best to loop the lines and let the coolant flow as much as possible.