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Got to Home Depot and buy a 4 foot piece of 1 inch steel gas pipe. Makes a nice extension to your breaker bar. That's what it took to loosen mine.

Put a voltmeter on the motor connections and operate the switch. You should see the polarity reverse when you toggle between up and down. Its the same motor for up and down, so its not likely that it will work down but not up!

Now if anyone could explain why in their inimitable wisdom they added extra useless holes in the gasket making it even more prone to distort and blow then we could all sleep really well. :)

So you confirmed power is reaching the motor? If you haven't save your $80 for now and do some more debugging.

Its all here, along with most everything else M related. http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=923

The passenger window gets its power from the driver switch. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=Main&Page=094 Did you try to raise the window using the driver side switch?

said the actress to the Bishop...

Try call Mark Sherman at Vancouver (WA) Toyota. msherman@vancouvertoyota.com He has found some weird stuff for me recently. He was telling me he rebuilt a 68 Crown with an M engine a few months back and was able to get all Toyota parts.

Here's the wiring diagram for the circuit. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=Main&Page=136 Its a very simple circuit. Power goes to the bulb in the combination meter, and the other side of the bulb goes to two switches. One is the handbrake, and the other is...

Cd is only the coefficient of drag, it needs to be multiplied by the car's frontal area to get the drag force acting on the car. The actual force is also a function of the air density and of course the square of the car's speed. Cd's for cars are usually in the .25 to .45 range, so a .31 is a...

I agree, I think you are burning it... most likely the valve seals.

If you park it overnight on a clean area does it leave any drips? If no, you must be burning it. My cars went from 1qt/1000 miles to <0.5qt/5000 miles after I replaced the valve seals. The only time you would ever see smoke was briefly after a cold start when the car had sat for a few days.

You'd like my Agilent 8510XF! :)

Before you start, make sure it is not just leaking at the hose outlet on the firewall. Coolant can run down from that connection into the dash. I would hate to take the dash out to find it is just the hose connection.

I have a 20 year old Fluke 77. They make tough tools. Stay well away from the Harbor Freight stuff. I had a cheapo cencom meter given to me and it was so far off on current right out of the box it was useless.

I changed my long cable out during a BHG repair. It makes the job about 15 minutes instead of 2 hours.

With that much warp it probably got very hot at some point. Do a hardness test before investing any more money in it. Also sounds like the coolant wasn't maintained, so another reason to get rid of it.

On mine cylinder #2 failed with a BHG. I would like to see some data supporting cyl #6 failing more often. All I've seen so far is comments like the one above with no supporting data. The amount of exhaust flow is small in the EGR circuit so I don't see how it has any significant impact on the...

I am not sure how it will behave without it, but pin S-7 on the TCCS is connected to the oil pressure sender. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=Main&Page=48

I would suggest that unless you actually model the coolant flow with a 3D FEM fluid flow simulator (like Toyota did when they designed it) you should leave it alone because they did it for a reason. Note also that the intake side block coolant ports are partially blocked off by the head gasket...