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Advanced timing often will result in high CO emissions and sometimes marginal HC too. Retarding the timing will lower CO and HC emissions, but you have to ask yourself why they are high in the first place.... something else is wrong.

If JJ sees this thread there is going to be trouble.... :biglaugh: Here is the diagnostics for the coolant sensor. You couldn't have looked too hard. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&Page=113 Just for the record, the ECU will null out any...

engine coolant temp. With a warm engine, disconnect the sensor. You should get a code set and the ECU will default to 80deg C. It should run okay warmed up with that default temp.

Have you done any diagnostics? There is no information here for anyone to help you.

Read what he said. Its a switch so don't worry about the voltage. Make sure that you are not getting a code 51 (with the TE1 jumpered to ground) before you test the timing. Its easy to test, just sit in the drivers seat with the ign on and the diag jumpered (make sure A/C is off) . Hit...

Yeah this is alot of work for little point IMHO. Most of the connectors on the engine components will need to be replaced or jury rigged.

This is an upgrade I've been looking into a little. The MKIV Turbo pump (Denso 195130-1020) will support 550CC injectors as long as you can get 13V to the pump terminals. The supra pump draws double the current relative to a Walbro GSS341 for the same flow and so the ability of the stock...

Mike Bringle. He reads the supras.com email list.

Are my eyez playing tricks??....

I am not saying you have to get the block resurfaced, rather check for damage and then make your decision. These engines seem to always have some grooving from the fire rings shifting around due to the CTE mismatch between iron and aluminum. It's not a good thing because the groove reduces...

That makes sense to me too. In cool weather it would seem possible to to bring the temp too far down since there is no thermostat. TK, now I understand the comment on downstream. I was thinking you were talking about the air flow for some reason. :icon_conf

Thanks. Did you plumb it into the stock rad cooler before or after your external cooler?

Looks like its already answered, but to clarify, the speedo cable connected to the dash is the same for manual and auto.

I use Mobil 1 Synthetic gear lube 75W-90 for the diff plus a tube of LSD anti-chatter goop.

That is the classic failure mode of our swiss cheese gasket. The fire ring lost clamping force (check for grooving in the clamping surfaces) and was pushed by the combustion pressure away from the cylinder since the only thing stopping it was the tiny rib between the two water holes. Clean off...

Tk, do you have a picture of your setup? I have an extra stock oil cooler that I was going to rig like you have done. My original plan was to piggy back it on the existing oil cooler.

Do what you want, but its a ticking time bomb. Name any production motor with rubber hoses inside the crankcase?

Most confusing post.... The red and white leads are going to ign+, and the black is grounded. Is that what you want? Seems like red should go to bat+ not ign+ based on your first post.

Take a look at the condition of your rubber hoses that come in contact with the crankcase vapors, these are the PCV hoses and the vent tube behind the alternator from the crankcase to the head. Chances are they are rock hard and starting to split unless you replaced them in the last year...

After this mod, it would seem like a good idea to go back to the 7M-GE cam covers without the indentation for the coil pack.