And downshifting wishing the car could stop before I hit. I was cruising at 40 because I knew they were frequently in the area. I'll try to run up there later today and snap some pictures of the 87 shell I bought.
The efficiency of the turbine is already lacking due to years of use/abuse. I'd get the car started/running problem free before you replace it unless the turbo has a lot of slack on the bearings already.
+1
Without the backplate for the timing cover, you're going to have fun getting it spot on without special equipment. My stock exhaust manifold has a crack bigger than that which hasn't leaked yet, hopefully it doesn't start leaking in the near future.
I'd be more interested in an average speed as opposed to the courses ran, as long as you keep good air flowing it doesn't limit your options as bad.
If you're worried that a few more psi will hurt the engine you could always get a meth injector kit to keep the IAT's down over long periods.
Well, finally found a shell I could afford to get all the parts I needed off of it. Cost me 400 for the shell so I took it to the shop doing the work to cannibalize the parts needed. Afterwards the shell might be going up for sale/parts or I might keep for parts needed myself.
The clutch pushrod moves a lot more than that.. Can you manually pull the clutch away from the disc? Just tug on the arm attached to the clutch. If you can move it with your hand, your MC is dead.
If it took you an hour to get all the air out of the system.. I'd say try another master cylinder. When I installed a new slave/master cylinder and bench bled the slave, it took me about 15 minutes to get the air out.
Are all the air dams in place under the hood? Even the radiator fan shroud? Are the fins on the radiator damaged? Is your clutch fan even turning?
My car can idle all day long in 100+ weather and not even budge from where she normally sets.
If the car cools as soon as she rolls I bet you've...
So you have no power to the b+ terminal, you could always take a jumper and go from the positive on the battery to FP.
Yes, the ISCV can keep the car from running. Consider what ISCV means, idle speed control valve, with the TB completely shut there's no air to the engine thus the ISCV lets air...
Did you put any oil on the seals before you pushed them into place? Forcing a dry seal can cause them to rip. You could also make sure that the fuel rail you're bolting down isn't bent at all or you're ever so slightly twisting it when you torque it.
I'd do like most here suggested..
I'd change all fluids, all of them. I'd do a complete tune up along with probably even a fuel filter. Depending if the car has been sitting I'd probably drop the tank and get the tank cleaned along with checking the operation of the calipers. My car had been...
Bet you the master cylinder isn't compressing anymore. If the slave corroded over winter to become rusted, bet there's water in the master cylinder causing it to leak pressure.
Also, I don't see where you said you got all the air out of the system..
Just do what I'm in the process of doing..
I've got a 57 trim ct26 on wastegate pressure right now. Getting all of my exhaust together along with 3" downpipe with an AEM UEGO on it and a 3" catback. I've got the DM IC kit for the better IAT, bigger fuel pump(walbro 255), DM AFPR kit, a NEW...
Go to a local machine shop and ask them to cut it out real quick. Shouldn't take long at all to make one. I'd say it'll take longer to find the material in the shop than to cut it out.
That's why instead of doing the lexafm/550 mod I'm going aem ems v2 with only a 57 trim/hardpipe/walbro 255 and afpr. I want reliabilty over power but power is appreciated of course :D
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